Phantom Gourmet: Hojoko In Boston

BOSTON - A sushi game that's not for kids; an open kitchen firing inventive dishes to a fun and funky poolside space; and drinks that are definitely the bomb. There are just so many reasons why you have to go to Hojoko.

Located adjacent to the Verb Hotel, a former Howard Johnson's on Boylston Street near Fenway, Hojoko is what's known in Japan as an 'izakaya'.

"In Japan you find a lot of izakayas and they're all kind of tiny hole in the walls where folks just go to grab a drink and have a little snack," explained owner Nancy Cushman. "So we have an amazing bar program and all the food kind of centers around things to eat while you're having a cocktail."

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After visiting izakayas all over Japan, Nancy and her husband Tim, the dynamic duo behind the highly acclaimed O-Ya in the Leather District, decided to bring this concept stateside and created a festive space decked out with stuff they've collected through the years.

"At first people are a little in sensory overload because there's a lot to look at and a lot to take in," said Nancy. "A Pac Man table where you can sit and play Pac Man while you're having a drink. Vintage hairdresser chairs with the big helmet over the top. I think the whole atmosphere here is designed to be fun. As kind of wacky as some of it may be, it's just to make you feel comfortable when you come in."

A dish that may have a member of your party feeling not so comfortable is Hojoko's Wasabi Roulette. In this deliciously daring game of chance, 6 pieces of tuna sushi are delivered to your table, with one containing a large ball of extra spicy wasabi in the center.

"When you get it at the table, nobody knows which piece has the extra wasabi in it so that's the roulette part," explained Tim. "You bite in and everyone is chewing. They're thinking, 'am I the one who got it?' And then all of a sudden it takes off and the person who got it realizes they're the one who got it and then everyone [laughs]."

But don't sweat it, because if you're the unfortunate victim of this game of roulette, you'll be treated to something cool and refreshing served in a baby bottle.

If raw fish isn't your thing, Hojoko still has you covered. There's everything from giant buttermilk brined chicken wings, to pot stickers stuffed with shrimp and pork, to juicy chicken thighs fired up on a Japanese robata grill and served on a stick. The Dogzilla is a monstrous hot dog that's wrapped in bacon, stuffed with jalapenos and cheese and topped with bonito flakes.

"When you bite in, you get slightly spicy pickled jalapeño, the melty gooey cheese, the smoky bacon, the sweet sauce, and then again those bonito flakes are actually smoky, so you get that additional umami punch to your face," Tim described.

"A hot dog is already pretty indulgent, and we just jack it up ten times from there," Nancy added.

There's a spicy and satisfying tuna burger, or a beef blend of chuck and wagyu short rib topped with American cheese, dashi pickles, red onion and special sauce, and served on a sesame seed roll. For a fresh Japanese spin on an American frozen food aisle classic, order Hojoko's so-called Steak Ums.

"So we get wagyu short rib, and then slice it thin just like you'd get Steak Ums," Tim explained. "Then we have this real light dressing we put on which has real subtle Korean flavors, and then you get a little side of our kimchee."

For something truly unique, order one of Hojoko's rack of ribs, but keep in mind, these aren't your average baby backs. It's the back bone of a tuna.

"You scrape off the meat and you put it on the nori, which is the seaweed, and you can put green onions on there and then dip it in some ponzu. It's almost like tacos made with seaweed," Tim said. "It is limited; there is only so much. Usually we sell it out."

Since traditional izakayas are drinking establishment, there is plenty to choose from at Hojoko's bar. From cups of sake sealed for freshness, to fun festive cocktails, to spins on sake bombs using a variety of beverages plunked into each other for a drink that's causes quite a stir.

"You rest it on top of the glass and when you slam the glass on the table, the little shot of sake falls into the glass and you drink the whole thing down," Nancy explained.

Whether you're drinking, dining or doing a little bit of both, when you're at Hojoko you'll certainly be having fun.

"When you go to a restaurant or you go out to dinner, you want to feel like you're escaping. And when you walk in here you definitely feel like you're in a little bit of a different world, but it's really friendly and inviting and fun. There is something seriously wrong with you if you don't have fun while you're here," Nancy laughed.

You can find Hojoko at 1271 Boylston Street in Boston, and online at hojokoboston.com.

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