Inside the kitchen of Philly's longest-running jazz club: "Everybody's playing a different instrument in here"

As Jazz Appreciation Month begins, Chris' Jazz Cafe is marking more than 36 years as Philadelphia's longest continuously-running jazz club. 

Along Sansom Street in Center City, the venue draws crowds each Tuesday through Saturday for live performances. But behind the scenes, another kind of performance unfolds each night — one driven by timing, coordination and creativity in the kitchen.

Executive chef and venue owner Mark DeNinno describes his role in musical terms.

"My feeling is that I'm the orchestra leader of my kitchen," DeNinno said. "Everybody's playing a different instrument in here, and it's my job to bring those instruments together into symphony."

DeNinno said he sees a direct parallel between what happens onstage and what happens behind the kitchen doors.

"That's the musical arts — we're the culinary arts, in the kitchen. So we're both artists," he said.

The venue describes its menu as "superbly soulful, Southern-influenced," offering both seasonal and signature dishes: from New Orleans jambalaya to crispy goat cheese beignets to crab ravioli with ricotta, lemon and herbs and pecorino Romano.

While DeNinno runs the business, his background is in the kitchen. He said one of his greatest passions is mentoring young people in the hospitality industry.

"They know that it's a teaching kitchen — it's not just a position," DeNinno said. "They're all part of the culinary vision, and that's really what makes the kitchen hum."

Chef de cuisine Vinny D'Agostino embraces that spirit. The South Philadelphia native says he takes pride in developing new dishes, including signature ice creams.

"We're just trying to match the talent that we're putting on the stage," he said.

Though he didn't grow up listening to jazz, D'Agostino said the job has changed that.

"I feel like now I'm part of the jazz community, and … some of the musicians have told me I've started to pick up an ear for it!" D'Agostino said.

Chris' Jazz Cafe typically features two live music sets each night, with late-night performances Thursday through Saturday. Shows are also livestreamed, allowing audiences beyond Philadelphia to tune in.

But for customer Lauren Zingaro-Toth, the in-person experience was the way to go.

"The food was delicious, and we loved the music," she said. "I can't wait until we come back!"

That sentiment is echoed by many musicians. New York City-based trumpet player and singer, Benny Benack III, said the food stands out.

"There's a lot of jazz clubs where the menu is a bag of pretzels and a watery hot dog, and people know when they come to Chris' that they're going to get a great meal," Benack said. "The incredible cuisine feeds into the incredible music."

DeNinno said as much as he values the hard work of his kitchen staff, he also wants them to have a good time.

"We find that when you have a kitchen, you have a happy front of the house," DeNinno said. "If we're happy doing what we love back here, and the [guests] love it, then that really shows that we're all on the same team."

This fall, the venue will celebrate 37 years in business.