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Hair Coloring 101

Over 70 percent of women color their hair, but we sometimes don't get what we want.

To help you get exactly what you're looking for, celebrity colorist Eva Scrivo, owner of New York's Eva Scrivo Salon, shared her tips for making the hair coloring process as painless as possible.

Scrivo says people need to better understand the opportunities and options that exist with hair color -- and particularly professional hair color. With this knowledge, she says clients can be a part of the decision-making process for what choice is best for one's hair and how to safely achieve that.

To avoid an "oops" color that isn't what you expected at all, Scrivo suggests keeping your color desire realistic for the type of hair you have.

She added, "Know that achieving great hair color can be a gradual process that may take more than one visit to your colorist. Hair damage often occurs when people try to do too much in one visit. Manage your expectations and be patient."

Other clients need to be concerned with the safety of hair color, including pregnant women. Typically, Scrivo said, color should be avoided during the first trimester, and consult with your doctor after that.

She added, "The safest color (for pregnant women) is actually highlights because the bleach should not come in direct contact with the body (should not touch the scalp. Demi-permanent color and glazes are safer than permanent color, because they do not have ammonia."

However, if you choose something a little more drastic, such as foil highlights, Scrivo suggests that you shouldn't apply bleach beyond the root area (not on previously highlighted hair).

On "The Early Show" Scrivo explained how she achieved each of the models' hair color:

Brunette
Marisol is a professional model with naturally beautiful dark brown hair. She wanted to look more sophisticated and better balance her skin tone without a major change to her hair color.

This is a gentle way of lightening the hair by one shade with demi-permanent color, great for brunettes whose dark hair makes them look pale.

Subtle highlights woven in with foils to give dimension to the overall color, must be lightened past the "brassy" stage to get light brown highlights without the red.

To do this safely and correctly, it can take 4 to 6 hours for a very skilled colorist to make a drastic change. If rushed, you risk damage to the hair and/or poor results. Be aware of this, and either plan to spend most of the day at the salon or even better -- break it up over two to three visits.

Blonde
Lisa is a business executive and a mother of two. She doesn't have much time and needs to get more mileage out of her hair color.

Highlights done with the balayage technique (hand painting rather than foils), which will grow out more beautiful and natural looking.

Used icy clear glaze to gently lift the base color by one shade, so it blends better with the highlights.

Tip: How to avoid the "brassy" look.

Scrivo explained a "brassy" effect usually happens when women try to go blonde from brunette. She said it's the result of the colorist not allowing enough time for processing of the color to get past the red and orange stages, which come before blonde (yellow is the last stage before blonde). This also happens when the colorist works on sections of hair that are too large, and the bleach does not completely saturate the back of each section.

Red
Heather is an actress who wanted a more striking yet sophisticated look.

Scrivo said it's a myth that permanent color must be used for bright, vibrant colors. We gently pre-lightened her hair by scattering highlights throughout and used a vibrant demi-permanent color to achieve a beautiful red.

The red will fade over about 40 shampoos, and will not leave a noticeable line of demarcation as her natural hair grows out.

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