San Francisco's last jeepney helps highlight city's Filipino culture

Every time Mario DeMira slides behind the wheel and turns the key, he holds his breath.

"Sometimes you've gotta work with it, you know, give it a couple turns, pray a little bit," DeMira said.

After a few tense moments, he's on his way. A little clunky, but not bad for a vehicle that's been around for 80 years. It's a jeepney, and San Francisco's most photographed vehicle you've never heard of.   

After World War II, the U.S. left military jeeps behind in the Philippines. Instead of letting them rot, locals stretched them out, hand-painted them, and turned them into one of the most beloved forms of public transportation in the country. 

And they did it in style.

"The jeepneys in the Philippines are very ornate," DeMira said. "The drivers and Filipino people in general are loud and colorful personalities."

Wherever this one goes, it stops traffic. People stare. They wave. They reach for their phones.

DeMira is the assistant director of SOMA Pilipinas, San Francisco's Filipino Cultural District, and the man behind the wheel of the last jeepney in the city. It was donated to the organization by Bay Area-based pop musician Toro y Moi after it was used in one of his music videos for a song on his 2022 album Mahal.

But even this beloved icon has hit a speed bump. Back in the Philippines, the government is putting the brakes on jeepneys, phasing them out for modern vehicles. For DeMira, it's a road he understands, even if he doesn't love where it leads.

"I get it," he said. "You want to modernize. But you gotta do it in a way that still holds onto a piece of that history and that culture."

Speaking of history, it arrived at the most inopportune moment, in the form of thick, white smoke billowing from the tailpipe, bringing the tour to an early close. For DeMira, it comes with the territory.

"Part of the charm and part of the headache," he said.

DeMira drove the jeepney straight to the garage. He said it should be back on the road soon. Because if there's one thing this old jeep has proven, it always finds its way back. And that's not just blowing smoke.

To reserve a tour, visit somapilipinas.org.