Russell Simmons' Big Bet on Macy's to Boost his Latest Collection
Have you heard of ArgyleCulture? Don't worry, you won't have to turn in your hipster card if you haven't. Though hip-hop mogul Russell Simmons men's brand for the "urban graduate" has been around since 2007, it hasn't exactly been the label on every trendsetter's back pocket. But Simmons is betting that an exclusive distribution deal with Macy's (M) will launch the collection into the mass-market retail stratosphere.
It won't be that easy.
ArgyleCulture has a lot of obstacles to overcome. Not the least of which is that Macy's is already chock-full of similar threads. And Macy's merchandising team is planning to position it smack in the middle of Tommy Hilfiger (PVH) and Ralph Lauren (RL). While Simmons does admit he's drawn inspiration from these venerable peddlers of the preppy aesthetic, he insists his designs are (what else?) unique.
It's a different language that speaks to young men in college to those aged 50 or so who have "graduated" from the hip-hop look. "They want to wear stuff that gives them a little swagger, that gives them a little edge. It's Brooks Brothers meets Tommy meets Ralph, but more colorful, playful and fun."
Simmons can say all he wants about taking a different approach, the so-called move beyond the uber-successful stylings of Phat Farm's (the brand he founded and sold for $140 million to Kellwood) urban homeboy aren't that groundbreaking. Everything from the color palette of eye-popping bright patterns to the silhouettes are fairly standard. (And don't get me started on the slouchy Bermuda shorts-come-gauchos.) Tommy and Ralph (not to mention Mark Ecko Cut & Sew, Sean John, etc.) have lurid shades, slim/slouchy shapes and techno-prep patterns a-plenty. Even the "face" of the campaign - the finely-chiseled Tyson Beckford - has starred in the competition's campaigns.
But there are bigger problems than a lack of originality. WWD reports that ArgyleCulture was mired in legal and delivery problems with sourcing agent, LF USA. Simmons says it's no longer a concern. The clothes are ready to ship and, "We have the money. Remember, it took five years for Phat Farm to gain footing. I don't really have good success at the beginning."
It's true that most start-ups take five years to be profitable. However, Simmons already has an established name and is working with a supplier that is well-known for its speedy turn and reach. LF USA is a division of 104 year old Li & Fung, the global supplier to the likes of Hilfiger, Sean John, etc. It's hard to believe that LF USA couldn't deliver the goods on time.
More likely the delay was due to the fact that LF USA and Simmons weren't playing nicely together. Simmons just filed a suit against LF USA (for $55 million in punitive damages) alleging the supplier only agreed to source and supply ArgyleCulture if it could license Simmons' mass market brand American Classics which is sold in Walmart (WMT).
Despite the competition and the legal mess, Simmons might still have a chance with this brand. Tapping the power of personal appearances, he was present at the opening of the ArgyleCulture shop at Macy's flagship in Herald Square and he's hitting the road to promote the collection in other East Coast locations.
Simmons will also take a page from his ex-wife Kimora Lee Simmons' playbook -- he's making a reality show. The eight-part series beginning Nov. 2 chronicles the making of the brand. Stay tuned.
Image via argyleculture.com
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