Making Makeup Do More By Using Less

When it comes to fall makeup trends, it looks like it's all about enhancing your natural beauty, rather than painting over it.[notes:book cover animation]

And Carmindy, the makeup artist for TLC's hit show "What Not To Wear," stopped by The Saturday Early Show with pointers to correct some common makeup mistakes many women make.

She gave three women "make-unders," looking at "before" pictures of them and explaining how they went wrong, and how to play up their best features by using the right products in the right places.

Carmindy helped Sally Hansen develop a new cosmetic line, "Natural Beauty." Both were inspired by real women, believing the ideal makeup should work to enhance and reveal your natural beauty, not conceal it.

Carmindy also wrote a book coming out next month, "Positively Beautiful," on inspiring women to see their gorgeous potential and believe in their own gifts -- in essence, saying "yes" to being positively beautiful by celebrating their individuality and enhancing their unique assets. The book teaches women how to play up their best features by using the right products in the right places.

MODEL #1: EYES MAKE-UNDER (Arleny, 23-year-old from New York City)

Arleny had "raccoon-looking eyes" as the result of applying too much eye liner along both the top and bottom lash lines, and using black liner instead of using a color opposite her eye color that would compliment her eyes and make her eyes "pop" and really stand out.

Carmindy applied liner to just the upper lash line to draw attention to the eyes. Remember, don't trace around the entire eye with the liner. This will look too heavy. The secret to applying liquid liner like a pro is not trying to sweep on a perfect line all at once. Begin applying liquid liner as close to the roots of the lashes as possible, starting at the inside corner of the eyes. In small little connecting dashes, work your way toward the outer corners and finish with a little sweep up at the ends. This little wing lifts the eyes and opens them up.

She recommends using a colored liner that contrasts with your eye color to enhance your eyes even more. Opposites attract. For blue eyes, go for teak brown. For green and hazel eyes, go for pure plum. And for brown eyes, try sapphire blue. Black works wonders on everyone for a bit more drama.

Then add highlighter underneath the brow bone, inside the corner of the eye and on top of the cheek bone. The highlight shadow is the key to her whole "Carmindy look." She loves highlighting because it literally turns the light around your eyes on high. You instantly glow and look luminous. Highlighter shades include a pale palette of white, champagne, vanilla, pearled pink, and light, iridescent or sunset gold. Choose matte or pearl shades for mature skin and shimmer for younger skin. Dab highlight eye shadow on the center of the lid. Seep it under the brow for a high arch look. Place it on the inside corners for a sparkling, eye-opening effect.

You can apply eye shadow to the lower lash line with an angled brush for a softer look.

Carmindu likes to finish her liquid liner look with neutral shadows on the lid and crease.

When playing up your gorgeous eyes, remember to balance your total look by toning down lip color so the eyes are the stars of the show.

Tips:
Apply eyeliner only to upper lash line
Use eyeliner color opposite to your eye color
Tone down lip color to play up eyes

MODEL #2: LIPS MAKE-UNDER (Angelique, 20-year-old from New York City)

Angelique had a ring of colored lip liner circling her lips that was disproportionate with her lip shape and shade, creating a two-toned look.

Carmindy's fixes: First, when it comes to selecting color, a rose shade is universally flattering.

Use a clear lip liner to outline the lips and fill-in with lipstick. To prevent lip color from bleeding, trace the outside of your lipsticked lips with a little concealer or a clear lip liner. Don't use a colored lip liner; you want to embrace your natural lip shape.

Intensify your lips by adding a dab of sparkling lip gloss to the center of the lower lip.

Remember to keep a balance of the face. If you have a heavy lip, go for a softer eye look and soft lips go with a heavy eye.

Tips:
Rose lip shade is universally flattering
Use clear lip liner to enhance lip shade
Add sparkling lip gloss to center of lower lip

MODEL #3: CHEEKS/FOUNDATION/BRONZER MAKE-UNDER (Dina, 40-year-old from Long Island, N.Y.)

Dina had a "clown-like" circle in the middle of the cheeks as a result of applying too much blush. She also wasn't wearing the right foundation/bronzer colors for her skintone.

So: She was wearing the wrong shade of foundation color, because you could see the color definition on the jawbone. Picking the right foundation is key. The color should melt into your skin so you can't see it. Don't test color on your wrist. The skin on your wrist and face are hardly ever the same color.

It's all about picking the right shade of blush and the proper application. Always use a big powder brush to apply powder blush to the cheeks. It will blend on the perfect amount of color to the right area creating the most natural-looking flush.

Pick a shade that's right for you, then smile and apply to the apples of the cheeks in a circular motion and brush excess color back towards your temples.

Bronzer doesn't go all over your face. That just makes it look like you have a "dirty-face." Choose a bronzer without shimmer, like a cream bronzer, and apply in key places where the sun would normally hit your face.

On both sides of the face, start at the middle of the forehead and brush in a C-formation, down your temples and around to cheek bones. You can also lightly brush bronzer over the bridge of the nose and chin.

Tips:
Use large fluffy powder brush to apply blush
Smile and apply blush to apples of cheeks
Brush bronzer in C-formation-down temples to cheek bones