Italian Comfort Food For A Chilly Evening
Fabio Trabocchi knew from an early age that he wanted to cook professionally. A native of the Ancona region of Italy, he studied at the Istituto Alberghiero Panzine in Senigallia and honed his techniques as an apprentice in restaurants near his hometown.
He was somewhat of a prodigy - according to his bio, he earned the position of sous chef at the one-star Navalge Moena restaurant when he was just 18, responsible for the entire kitchen team and collaborating with the chef on the menu. Three years later, Fabio was named Chef de Cuisine.
But Trabocchi had the urge to see the world and soon found himself in kitchens in Moscow, the United Kingdom and then Washington, D.C., where he ran the well-regarded Maestro Restaurant in the Ritz-Carlton Tysons Corner. This past summer, he was lured to New York, where he has redone the menu at Fiamma, a well-known Italian restaurant in the Soho section of town.
Sure, he can globe-trot with the best of them - but can Trabocchi pass the "Chef on a Shoestring" challenge: three courses for four people for under $40?
His menu is simple, yet satisfying for a nippy fall night: soup with pasta squares, a roast chicken served with a mix of wild mushrooms and delicious, crispy apple fritters. Buono appetito!
PASTA SQUARES IN BROTH
Store-bought pasta such as Farfalline or Orzo
For the soup:
1 sprig rosemary
1 sprig thyme
1 sprig sage
1/4 cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 garlic clove, skin left on
2 shallots, minced
1 leek, white part only, minced
2 quarts chicken stock
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 cups grated mild pecorino (about 6 oz.)
1. Tie the rosemary, thyme and sage together into a bundle with a piece of kitchen twine. Heat the olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the herb bundle, then add the garlic, shallots and leek and sauté for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally.
2. Add chicken stock and bring to a boil, then reduce to a simmer. Simmer for 20 minutes.
3. Increase the heat and bring the soup to a boil; remove garlic clove. Add pasta and cook until just tender, 2-3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper.
4. Ladle the soup into warm bowls. Top each with a generous sprinkling of pecorino and a drizzle of olive oil. Serve immediately.
CHICKEN AND WILD MUSHROOMS
1 whole free range (Organic) chicken (cut in 8 pieces, by your butcher)
1 lb mixed wild mushrooms (pick what looks best at the market ie. cremini, Shitake, Chanterelle, Porcini, Oyster)
1/4 lb Pecorino, crumbled (or, if the budget allows, Parmigiano Reggiano)
1 bunch Italian flat leaf parsley
3 cloves garlic
1 cup chicken stock
3 sprigs rosemary
3 tbsp canola oil
5 tbsp butter
1. Remove the chicken from the refrigerator 20 minutes prior to cooking. Pre-heat the oven at 350 degrees. In a tray, season the chicken with salt and pepper.
2. Place a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat. Add in 2 tbsp of oil and sear the chicken skin side down first until the skin starts to crisp and turn golden brown (approx 5 minutes). Next, add 3 tbsp of butter, 2 cloves of garlic (crushed with the back of a knife while keeping the skin on) and 2 sprigs of rosemary to the pot. Turn the chicken over and begin to cook the other side for approximately another 5 minutes, while basting the top of the chicken frequently.
3. Remove the chicken from the pan, along with the fat and place the pot back on the stove. Next, add the chicken stock. Place the chicken back into the pot and put into the oven for another 8 minutes.
4. Remove the breast and place it in a warm spot to rest while covered with aluminum foil. Cook the thighs and legs for another 15 minutes. Remove from the burner and keep warm.
5. Warm a separate sauté pan over medium-high heat that is large enough to fit all of the mushrooms with out overcrowding the pan. Place the remaining oil into the pan and make sure it is hot before adding in the mushrooms. Let the mushrooms start to sear without moving the pan for 1 minute, then add in the remaining butter, garlic and rosemary. Season with salt and pepper. Toss the mushrooms to incorporate all of the flavors and continue to cook for another 2 minutes and sprinkle in the freshly chopped parsley.
6. Place the breast back in the Dutch oven with the rest of the Chicken over medium-low heat. Taste and adjust seasoning if necessary. Add the sautéed mushrooms and keep simmering for 2 more minutes. Bring to the table and serve family style topped with crumbled cheese.
APPLE FRITTERS
For the apples:
4 Golden Delicious or Liberty apples
1/2 cinnamon stick
1/2 cup granulated sugar
For the batter:
2 large eggs, separated
2 large egg yolks
1/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup sparkling water, such as Pellegrino
3/4 cup all-purpose flour
1-1/2 tsp baking powder
3 Tbsp (1-1/2 oz.) unsalted butter, melted
Grated zest of 1 lemon
Grated zest of 1 orange
3 quarts sunflower or peanut oil
Confectioners' sugar for dusting
Method for the apples:
With an apple corer, core the apples. Slice them into 1/4-inch-thick rings.
Grate the cinnamon stick into a small bowl. Add the sugar and toss to mix. Place the apples in a shallow baking pan and dust them with the sugar mixture, turning to coat both sides. Cover and let the apples macerate for 6 hours.
Method for the batter:
In a large bowl, whisk the yolks with 2 tablespoons of the sugar. Add the water, flour, baking powder, butter, lemon and orange zests; whisk together for about 5 minutes or until the batter is creamy. Cover the bowl and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour.
In a deep fryer or deep heavy pot, heat the oil to 350 degrees Fahrenheit.
In a medium bowl, whip the whites with the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar until soft peaks form. Gently fold the whites into the batter.
Line a plate with paper towels. Dry the apples with paper towels. Using the handle of a wooden spoon, lift one apple ring by the whole and dip in the batter. Shake off any excess and gently slide it into the hot oil. Add only as many additional slices that comfortably fit in the fryer. Cook 2-3 minutes per side or until golden brown. Transfer the fritters to the lined plate, blot up any excess oil, and dust with confectioners' sugar. Repeat with the remaining apples slices. Serve immediately.