Fountain Of Youth In A Jar?

In our youth-obsessed culture, wrinkle creams have become more popular than ever. Over-the-counter anti-aging products are the fastest growing sector of the cosmetic industry, bringing in $ 1.5 billion plus a year!

Friday's Early Show explores the wrinkle cream frenzy. Dermatologist Dr. Darrell Rigel discusses the effectiveness of these products.

The surge of over-the-counter anti-aging products began in the early 90's with alphahydroxy. The cosmetic industry picked up on the idea of using a weaker solution of the chemical (up to that point only prescribed by dermatologists) so they could sell it over the counter. That led to the term, "cosmeseuticals" - often used by the industry to refer to a cross between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The term is not considered a medication and therefore the FDA does not regulate these products.

Nutrients such as antioxidants include amino acids, vitamins and other natural substances. They supposedly can stop or even repair (free radical) damage to skin cells that comes from aging.

Some of the anti-aging agents that are found in these creams include the following:

• Alphahydroxy Acids (AHA)--Also known as fruit acids (vitamin C) derived from grapes, lemons, and milk, they peel away the mature outer layer of skin. The most common AHA's in cosmetic products are glycolic (from sugarcane) and lactic acid (from milk). Manufacturers claim AHAs can reduce wrinkles, even skin tones, repair sun damage and minor scarring, and make skin softer.

  
  

• Beta Hydroxy Acids--Alpha and Beta Hydroxy Acids have been referred to as the master exfoliants. They were the first skin care ingredients in creams and lotions in the 1980's that made a visible difference in the skin.

  
  

• Alpha Lopoic Acid--It is nature's most powerful antioxidant.

  
  

• Retinoic Acids--Derived from vitamin A, these slough off dead, dry layers to reveal a smoother surface beneath. Along with AHA products they can tighten skin. Retinoids can address sun damage and fine lines and wrinkles.

  
  

• Vitamins A, C, E

  
  

• Collagen--A protein, it is one of the substances that gives our skin its youthful suppleness and tautness and is especially susceptible to damage from free radicals.

  
  

• Coenzyme Q10