Caviar Demystified

One of the classiest things you can serve for a New Year's Eve party, or any special party, is caviar.

And you don't need the imported kind, either.

In a "Five-Minute Cooking School" segment on The Early Show Wednesday, cooking teacher and cookbook author Tori Ritchie said caviar is more affordable than you may think, and showed how to serve it. She offered the lesson in the flagship store in Manhattan of The Early Show partner and specialty home furnishings retailer Williams-Sonoma.

All caviar, which is also known as roe and as fish eggs, comes from sturgeon. There are three main types of caviar and each comes from a different species of sturgeon. These caviars include beluga, sevruga and osetra.

Historically, the best known and most respected caviars came from the Caspian Sea. However, the domestic variety provides a good alternative.

Domestic caviar is much less expensive — $70 an ounce, on average, compared to $200 and up for imported. More importantly, as far as Ritchie is concerned, over-fishing in the Caspian Sea has caused the sturgeon there to become endangered. American sturgeon are raised on sustainable farms. Plus, when you buy caviar that's produced in the United States, you know exactly what you're getting because U.S. farms are regulated, unlike the sources of imported caviar.

Years ago, domestic caviar wasn't considered very good. But increased demand has resulted in much improved quality, and now famous chefs are cooking with domestic varieties.

Probably the "finest" American caviar is the osetra, which is from a domestic sturgeon and most closely resembles imported caviar. Three other types of domestic come from other species: Paddlefish, Hackleback and Golden Ostera.

Each of the four has a slightly different taste: Think of caviar as you would wine. Which is truly the best? According to Ritchie, the best caviar is the one you like most.

SERVING CAVIAR

Caviar must be kept cold at all times because it can deteriorate quickly. However, don't freeze it: That ruins the texture and taste. An unopened jar can sit in the coldest part of your refrigerator for a few weeks, but once opened, the caviar should be consumed within a day or two.

To serve, nestle a small bowl of caviar in a bed of ice. It is not considered tacky to serve it right out of the jar if you wish. Avoid serving or eating caviar with a metal spoon, as this can lend the roe an off-flavor. Instead, use mother-of-pearl spoons.

A traditional presentation of caviar includes toast points, crème fraiche, chopped shallot and chopped eggs.

Salty caviar and crisp, cold vodka is a classic combination; you might also consider serving caviar with champagne.

OTHER RECIPE IDEAS

One jar of caviar should serve about 12 people. However, party guests tend to take more than their share. So, if you want to stretch your caviar a bit and control how much your guests consume, consider the classic New Potatoes with Caviar.

The potatoes are baked, cut in half, and then the pulp is scooped out. Combine the pulp with sour cream and chives, spoon back into the shell and top with caviar. This is a familiar presentation that many people have probably seen before.

Ritchie also shows an updated version of this dish. Instead of serving the caviar on top of new potatoes, she serves it on top of homemade potato chips. She shows how to use a mandoline to create the chips. Of course, you can also simply buy good-quality waffle chips.

Scrambled Eggs with Caviar is an elegant first course, or a really decadent breakfast. Ritchie shows how to carefully remove the top of an egg. You empty the egg and scramble it. In the meantime, you blanch the shells; this cleans away any germs or bacteria. When the eggs are scrambled, pile them back into the shells and top with caviar. You can also serve the eggs on a plate, with no shell, or even fold the caviar into an omelet.

For recipes, go to Page 2.RECIPES

Scrambled Eggs with Caviar

This dish adds an elegant note to brunch. Serve with toast points alongside.

6 eggs
2 Tbs. unsalted butter
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
2 Tbs. chopped fresh chives
1.75 oz. caviar

Using an egg topper, remove the top 1/4 from 4 of the eggs, being careful to remove only the top. Pour the yolks and whites into a small bowl and set the eggshells aside. Crack open the remaining 2 eggs and add the yolks and whites to the bowl; discard those shells. Using a fork, beat the eggs until thoroughly blended.

Bring a small saucepan three-fourths full of water to a boil over high heat. Reduce the heat to medium so the water maintains a simmer. Place one of the reserved eggshells in the simmering water for 10 to 15 seconds. Using a slotted spoon, carefully remove the eggshell and place upside down on a paper towel-lined plate to dry. Repeat with the remaining eggshells.

In a nonstick sauté pan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the beaten eggs, season with salt and pepper, and stir constantly with a wooden spoon until the eggs have thickened into small curds, 3 to 5 minutes.

Place the empty eggshells in egg cups. Fill the shells with the scrambled eggs, dividing evenly. Garnish with the chives and a small spoonful of caviar. Serve immediately.

Serves 4.

Williams-Sonoma Kitchen.

Gaufrette Potatoes with Caviar and Crème Fraîche

These wonderfully crispy hors d'oeuvres are easy to make and will disappear fast at a cocktail party or buffet. You can fry the potato chips a few hours in advance, then store them in an airtight container. Top with the crème fraîche, caviar and chives just before serving.

1 large russet potato, peeled
Canola oil for deep-frying
Coarse sea salt, to taste
1 cup crème fraîche or sour cream
1.75 oz. caviar
1/4 cup chopped fresh chives

Using a mandoline with the waffle-cut attachment, cut the potato as thinly as possible, turning it 90 degrees after each pass to create a waffle pattern. Carefully place the potato slices in a bowl of cold water.

In a large sauté pan over medium-high heat, pour in oil to a depth of 1/2 inch and heat to 375ºF on a deep-frying thermometer. Transfer the potato slices to a baking sheet lined with a kitchen towel and blot dry.

Working in small batches, fry the potato slices, turning once, until golden and crispy, 2 to 3 minutes. Using tongs, carefully transfer the chips to a paper towel-lined baking sheet and season with salt. Repeat with the remaining potato slices.

Arrange the potato chips on a serving platter. Top each chip with some of the crème fraîche and caviar. Garnish with the chives and serve immediately.

Makes 20 to 30 hors d'oeuvres.

Williams-Sonoma Kitchen.

New Potatoes with Caviar

For an attractive presentation, use golden caviar, salmon roe and, if you can afford it, the real thing, caviar.

1 1/2 lb. small new red potatoes, 12 to 16, unpeeled and well scrubbed
2 Tbs. vegetable oil
3/4 cup sour cream or crème fraîche
2 tsp. finely chopped fresh chives
1/4 tsp. salt
Pinch of freshly ground white pepper
2 oz. any variety of caviar or fish roe
Fresh flat-leaf parsley sprigs or watercress for garnish

Preheat an oven to 475°F.

Place the potatoes on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake until cooked through and slightly crispy, 45 to 50 minutes; prick with a knife or skewer to test for doneness. Remove from the oven and let cool. Cut each potato in half crosswise. If the ends of any potatoes are uneven, cut off a thin slice from them so they will stand upright once they are filled. Carefully scoop out all the pulp from each half, leaving only a thin shell. Place the pulp in a bowl. Return the potato shells to the baking sheet, hollow sides down, and brush the skins with the oil.

Return to the oven and bake until crisp, 10 to 15 minutes. Remove from the oven and reduce the temperature to 425°F.

Add 1/2 cup of the sour cream, the chives, salt and white pepper to the potato pulp and mix well. Pack the potato mixture into a pastry bag fitted with a medium star tip and pipe the mixture into the shells. Alternatively, using a small teaspoon, spoon the mixture into the shells.

Place the filled potatoes on an ungreased baking sheet. Bake until heated through, 10 to 15 minutes. Arrange the potatoes on a serving platter. Garnish each with a dollop of the remaining sour cream, then of caviar. Garnish the platter with parsley sprigs and serve immediately.

Serves 10 to 12 as an appetizer.

Adapted from Williams-Sonoma Kitchen Library Series, Potatoes, by Diane Rossen Worthington (Time-Life Books, 1993).