Wrinkles Be Gone!

Do any of those "age-defying" cosmetics really work? Beauty expert Paula Begoun joined CBS This Morning to explain what's in the myriad of anti-wrinkle products now on the market, and what they can and can't do for you. If you're wondering what the difference is between Retinol, Retin A and Renova, here it is.

Due in large part to the vanity of the baby boomer crowd, the cosmetics industry has in the past few years produced a slew of products which claim to reduce or get rid of wrinkles, thereby reducing the signs of aging.

This trend in marketing of anti-aging cosmetics can be traced back to the development of alpha-hydroxy acids for cosmetic use in the late 1980s. Researchers determined that these acids, derived from fruits, were effective in eroding the top layer of dead skin, leaving behind a smoother, more youthful looking surface. The cosmetics industry went wild marketing skin care products that claimed to do just what boomers wanted done.

Today, preparations that include vitamin C and vitamin A are making the rounds, along with a slew of other so-called anti-aging products using ingredients such as coenzyme Q10 (an antioxidant), beta hydroxy acids, green tea, sea kelp, grape seed extract, beta carotene and carrot seed oil.

These anti-wrinkle potions can run $30 and up. And, there is little way of knowing if the product can in fact do what it claims. Cosmetics are not drugs and therefore are free from regulation by the Food and Drug Administration.

Beauty expert Paula Begoun, author of Blue Eyeshadow Should Be Illegal and Don't Go To The Cosmetics Counter Without Me, says the whole concept of "anti-aging" is a big deal for women, and increasingly for men. In 1998 alone, she counted more than 1,700 new anti-wrinkle products on the market.

The first thing consumers need to understand, says Begoun, is that "anti-aging" is an oxymoron. About 90-95 percent of wrinkles are the result of cumulative sun damage, not aging, she says.

People who do a better job protecting themselves from the sun with effective sunscreens are less likely to develop the brown spots, deep wrinkles or leathery skin surface that we associate with aging skin, she says.

We do lose fat cells as we age, she notes. This loss of these fat cells causes the skin to lose some of its pliability and suppleness. So, a person's face will not look as full, and the skin may sag a bit.

Wrinkles, she says, come from the skin being damaged by the dangerous ultra violet A rays. These UVA rays are more damaging to the skin than UVB rays.

Many companies are now touting cosmetics that contain Retinol, a pure form of vitamin A. The claim is that vitamin A works like the prescription drugs Retin A and Renova, both of which rejuvenate new skin cell growth. Renova is actually the only FDA-approved drug for wrinkles.

In fact, vitamin A, or Retinol, has properties loosely related to tretinoin, the ative ingredient in Retin A and Renova. However, Begoun says, only very high concentrations of vitamin A appear to be cosmetically effective. And the amount in many cosmetic products is less than one percent, she says, making them essentially expensive moisturizers.

Nonetheless, Paula believes anti-oxidants like Retinol as well as vitamins C and E are good ingredients in cosmetics because they work against cell damage and help repair or heal degraded skin.

Paula Begoun's tips to keep the skin looking younger and healthier:

Wear an effective moisturizer with sunscreen every day. For good protection buy a sunscreen containing at least one of these ingredients: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and avobenzone. If it has more than one, that's even better. Apply it liberally, and don't bother with the most expensive brands, she says.
"If you didn't do anything else than wear sunscreen, then you would still be ahead of the game," says Paula.
Consider Retin-A or Renova. If skin wrinkling and thickness are a problem, consider using a prescription product like Retin-A or Renova. Both help the skin produce new healthy skin cells. Renova is FDA-approved for wrinkles, and has been shown to make a significant difference in cell production.
Use a product with alpha hydroxy acid. As the new cells develop, it is important to remove the old cells. Paula suggests exfoliating with an alpha-hydroxy acid so the newly formed skin cells can find their way to the surface. Many products are available with this ingredient.

For more information see Cosmetics Cop.

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