Traditional Latin Fare, Modern Spin

Though he's only 36, Jose Garces has already established himself a leader in creating modern interpretations of Latin cuisine.

He solidified that reputation with the tremendous success of his first restaurant, Amada, an authentic tapas bar in Philadelphia, which opened to rave reviews three years ago. Garces now has four restaurants, and he released his first cookbook, "Latin Evolution," last week.

On The Early Show Monday, Garces prepared dishes that typify his unique take, offering recipes from his new book.

Called the "Latin Emeril" by one food critic for his wide smile and educational approach to food, Garces was recently nominated for the prestigious James Beard Foundation "Best Chef Mid-Atlantic" award.

He's long been an ambassador of contemporary Latin cuisine, appearing regularly in the New York Times, Travel & Leisure, Esquire, Cooking Light, Restaurant Hospitality, Conde Nast Traveler, National Geographic Traveler, Philadelphia magazine and the Travel Channel's Epicurious TV.

Garces' cookbook is a very personal collection of recipes.

He writes, "This is a story about me and others like me, first-generation Americans who spoke Spanish at home and English at school, people who felt like outsiders in their neighborhoods but relished the camaraderie and comfort of the family table. As an Ecuadorian kid growing up in an Irish Catholic neighborhood in Chicago, I would never have imagined that the foods I loved would become so well known and regarded. Little did I know that my earliest days spent at the stove with my grandmother, preparing the dishes that have been a part of my family for generations, would one day inform the menu items at my restaurants.

"... As a chef, my constant challenge is to see the possibilities that new ingredients and techniques offer, while honoring what has come before. My mantra is simple: authentic and innovative are not contradictory."

Among the dishes he prepared or discussed on The Early Show Monday:

RECIPES

Dungeness Crab Guacamole with Belgian Endive and Garlic Chips

Serves 4

3 cloves roasted garlic
2 Hass avocados
1⁄2 pound Dungeness crabmeat, picked
1⁄4 cup brunoised red onion
1 roasted jalapeño chile, diced small
1 plum tomato, seeded and brunoised
2 tablespoons cilantro chiffonade
2 tablespoons lime juice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, plus more to taste
2 heads Belgian endive, leaves removed
1/4 cup garlic chips
1/4 cup micro cilantro
1 teaspoon extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons lemon oil

In a molcajete or bowl, mash roasted garlic. Add avocado and mash into roasted garlic. Mix in crabmeat, red onions, jalapeño chiles, tomato, cilantro, and lime juice, and season with 1/2 teaspoon salt.

Trim off edges of endive leaves and place 3 leaves on each plate. Form guacamole into quenelles. Place each quenelle on top of an endive leaf. Stick 3 garlic chips into each quenelle.

Toss cilantro with olive oil and salt, and place on top of guacamole. Drizzle with lemon oil.

Arepas with Oxtail Ropa Vieja & Avocado Espuma

Serves 4

1/4 cup vegetable oil, for frying
4 arepas
Kosher salt, to taste
2 ounces uncooked smoked bacon
3/4 pound oxtail ropa vieja with 1/4 cup jus
4 thin slices green heirloom tomato
4 thin slices red heirloom tomato
1/2 cup avocado espuma
1/2 cup micro arugula
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Putting it all together: Preheat oven to 350°F. To a sauté pan add vegetable oil to just cover the bottom of the pan. Heat oil over medium heat until it starts to sizzle. Add the arepas and fry until golden brown, about 1 minute on each side. Remove arepas, drain, and season with salt. Split each arepa by cutting in half horizontally.

Cut each slice of bacon on the bias into 2 triangles. Arrange on a baking sheet and cook in oven until crisp.

In a saucepan over medium heat, heat oxtail ropa vieja with jus.

Place 2 arepa halves on each of 4 plates. Top each with oxtail mixture. Place a slice of green tomato and a slice of red tomato over the oxtail. Top with a bacon triangle, avocado espuma, and micro arugula tossed in olive oil.

Arepas:

Yields 4 arepas

1 cup instant arepas flour (see Sources and Substitutions)
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 1/4 cups hot water
1/4 cup unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup queso fresco

To make arepas: In a bowl combine flour and salt. Add water and butter to flour mixture while stirring. Mix thoroughly. Add queso fresco and mix to combine. Take the dough out of the bowl and knead until pliable. Using a 3-inch ring mold, form four 1/2-inch-thick disks.

Oxtail Ropa Vieja:

Yields 1 1/4 pound

3 pounds oxtail
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1 large Spanish onion, 1/2 chopped, 1/2 julienned
1/2 large carrot, chopped
9 cloves garlic, 6 whole, 3 julienned
1 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 cup plus 1/3 cup tomato paste
3 cups red wine
4 cups veal stock
3 guindilla chiles or 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon black peppercorns
10 sprigs thyme
1 yellow bell pepper, julienned

To make oxtail ropa vieja: Preheat oven to 325°F. In a braising pan over medium-high heat, sear oxtails on all sides in 2 tablespoons vegetable oil. Remove oxtails and place in a deep pot. Add chopped onion, carrots, and whole garlic cloves to the braising pan and season with salt. Over high heat sauté the vegetables until browned. Add 1/4 cup tomato paste and cook for an additional 5 minutes. Add red wine and veal stock to deglaze, scraping bottom of pan to loosen caramelized bits. Bring mixture to a boil. Remove from heat and pour mixture over oxtails. Add guindilla chiles (or red pepper flakes), peppercorns, and thyme. Cover tightly with foil and cook for 3 hours. Remove oxtails from the liquid and shred the meat. Strain jus and reserve.

In a large braising pan over low heat, sweat julienned onions and yellow bell peppers in vegetable oil until soft. Add julienned garlic and 1/3 cup tomato paste, and continue to sweat for an additional 5 minutes. Add reserved oxtail jus and bring to a boil; reduce heat to a simmer. Reduce mixture until the sauce has thickened to nappé. Add shredded oxtail and cook for an additional 10 minutes over low heat. Pour mixture out onto a sheet tray and refrigerate to cool. Ropa vieja can be frozen for up to 1 week.

Avocado Espuma:

Yields 1 cup

1/2 avocado, peeled and chopped
1/2 jalapeño chile, seeded and diced
1 tablespoon cilantro leaves
1 1/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon heavy cream
1/4 cup whole milk
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt

To make avocado espuma: In a blender, combine avocado, jalapeño, cilantro, and lemon juice, and puree. With blender running, add cream and milk and process until smooth. Season with sugar and salt. Use immediately.

FOR MANY MORE RECIPES, GO TO PAGE 2.

Halibut Fish Tacos with Chipotle Remoulade & Pickled Cabbage

Serves 6

1/4 cup vegetable oil, for frying
6 servings plantain-crusted halibut
Kosher salt, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
Vegetable oil spray
6 flour tortillas
6 tablespoons chipotle remoulade
3/4 cup pickled cabbage
6 slices avocado
1 lime, cut into wedges
1 cornhusk, soaked and torn into strips

Putting it all together: In a fryer or deep, heavy-bottomed pan, heat oil to 375°F. Fry plantain-crusted halibut until golden brown, about 1 minute. Season with salt and pepper

At the same time, heat a cast-iron pan or a griddle plate over medium heat. Spray with vegetable oil to coat. Place tortillas on the pan and heat each side for 15 seconds. Remove the tortillas, but keep the pan over heat.

Coat 1 side of each tortilla with 1 tablespoon chipotle remoulade. On top of the remoulade place 2 tablespoons pickled cabbage. Add a piece of halibut and an avocado slice to each tortilla. Top halibut with a squeeze of fresh lime, then roll up the tortilla and secure in the middle with a piece of cornhusk. Place the tacos back on the pan or griddle plate and toast each side until slightly browned, about 10 seconds per side.

Place on a serving plate garnished with remaining lime wedges.

Plantain-Crusted Halibut
Yields 6 servings
4 cups vegetable oil, for frying
10 green plantains, peeled and thinly sliced (6 ounces Goya brand plantain chips also work well)
Kosher salt, to taste
Black pepper, to taste
12 ounces halibut, cut into six 2-ounce rectangles
2 cups all-purpose flour
10 large eggs

To make plantain-crusted halibut: In a fryer or a deep, heavy-bottomed pan, heat oil to 375°F. Working in batches, deep-fry plantain slices until golden brown. Remove plantain slices from oil; season with salt and pepper. Drain and allow to cool. In a food processor, process plantain slices until coarse. Store in a cool dry place. (If using Goya brand plantain chips, simply process in food processor until coarse.)

Season halibut with salt and pepper. To bread halibut, arrange 3 large bowls in a line. Place flour in first bowl. Whisk eggs in second bowl. Place plantain crust in third bowl. Coat halibut with flour and shake off excess. Then coat halibut in egg, shaking off excess. Finally, coat halibut with plantain crust. Shake off excess and place on a tray lined with parchment paper.

Chipotle Remoulade:

Yields 1/2 cup

1 canned chipotle chile with sauce, pureed
1 1/2 teaspoons lime juice
1/4 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon capers
3/4 scallion, finely chopped
2 teaspoons finely chopped chives
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper

To make chipotle remoulade: In a blender, combine chipotle chiles and lime juice. Puree until smooth. In a bowl, combine chipotle mixture with mayonnaise, capers, scallions, chives, and parsley. Season with salt and pepper. Remoulade can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Pickled Cabbage:

Yields 3/4 cup

2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 cup white vinegar
3/4 cup finely shredded red cabbage

To make pickled cabbage: In a plastic container, combine salt, sugar, and vinegar. Add cabbage. Pickle for at least 1 day, covered and refrigerated.

Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho with Cucumber Salad & Yellow Tomato Chips

Serves 4

4 servings cucumber gelée
1 cup cucumber salad
4 cups heirloom tomato gazpacho
4 yellow tomato chips

Putting it all together: Remove the glasses from the refrigerator and pack 1/4 cup cucumber salad into each glass. Next fill each with 1 cup gazpacho. Top each with a tomato chip.

Cucumber Gelée:
Yields 4 servings

1 cup baby spinach
2 sheets gelatin
3 English cucumbers
1 teaspoon kosher salt

To make cucumber gelée: In a pot of boiling water, blanch spinach for 1 minute. Shock spinach in cold water. Bloom gelatin in ice water. Squeeze out excess water. Peel cucumbers and slice in half lengthwise. Scoop out and discard seeds, reserving the cucumber flesh. Place the cucumbers in a vegetable juicer. (Juicer should extract 2 cups liquid.) In a saucepan over low heat, bring 1/4 cup cucumber juice to a simmer. Add gelatin to dissolve.

In a blender, combine spinach, gelatin mixture and remaining cucumber juice. Season with salt. Pour 1/4 inch liquid into each of 4 rocks glasses and refrigerate to set, about 1 hour.

Cucumber Salad:

Yields 1 cup

2/3 English cucumber, peeled and brunoised
1 1/3 shallots, brunoised
1 1/3 tomatillos, brunoised
1 1/2 teaspoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 teaspoons Meyer lemon juice
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon kosher salt

To make cucumber salad: In a medium bowl, combine cucumber, shallots, tomatillos, and parsley. Toss with lemon juice and olive oil. Season with salt. Salad can be refrigerated for up to 24 hours.

Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho:

Yields 4 cups

4 large red heirloom tomatoes
2/3 English cucumber, seeded
3 cloves garlic
1/3 cup sherry vinegar
3 tablespoons diced day-old baguette, crust removed
1⁄3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper

To make gazpacho: Core tomatoes. Dip tomatoes into boiling water for about 15 seconds then shock in ice water. Peel tomatoes.

In a blender, combine tomatoes, cucumber, garlic, vinegar, and bread. Puree until smooth. While processing, slowly add olive oil until emulsified. Season with sugar, salt, and pepper. Gazpacho can be refrigerated for up to 2 days.

Yellow Tomato Chips:

Yields about 10 chips

1 yellow beefsteak tomato

To make yellow tomato chips: Preheat oven to 200°F. Slice tomato paper-thin and lay on a nonstick ovenproof surface, such as a Silpat, and place on sheet tray. Cover with another Silpat. Cook until tomatoes are completely dried, about 1 hour. Uncover and cool. Tomato chips can be stored at room temperature in a dry area for up to 1 week.

FOR MORE RECIPES, GO TO PAGE 3.

Bananas y Azafrán: Caramel-Rum Bananas with Flourless Chocolate Cake & Saffron Custard

Serves 4

1/4 cup saffron custard
4 servings chocolate cake
12 pieces caramel-rum banana
4 servings cocoa-almond brittle
1 cup caramel-rum sauce
Pinch saffron, for garnish

Putting it all together: Smear a dollop of saffron custard on each of 4 chilled plates. Place one chocolate cake on each plate, and top with a piece of cocoa-almond brittle sticking out of the cake. Pile 3 bananas slices beside each cake, then drizzle bananas with 1/4 cup caramel-rum sauce. Garnish with crumbled cocoa-almond brittle and a few saffron threads.

Saffron Custard
Yields 1 1/4 cups
1⁄2 sheet gelatin
3⁄4 cup heavy cream
1⁄4 cup whole milk
1⁄4 cup granulated sugar
1⁄2 teaspoon saffron
1 large egg yolk

To make saffron custard: In a bowl of ice water, bloom gelatin. Squeeze out excess water. In a saucepan over high heat, boil cream, milk, sugar, and saffron. In a separate bowl, whisk egg yolk. Whisk cream mixture into yolk to temper. Return mixture to saucepan over medium heat, and bring to 185°F, stirring constantly. Remove from heat and add bloomed gelatin. Stir until dissolved. Chill until set, about 3 hours. Custard can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

Chocolate Cake:
Yields 4 servings

2 3/4 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus butter for preparing pan
3 ounces semisweet chocolate
2 1/2 tablespoons water
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 large egg

To make chocolate cake: Preheat oven to 300°F. Prepare four 2-inch ring molds (at least 1 1/2 inches tall) by lining the bottom with aluminum foil to create pans. Brush each with butter.

In a bowl over a double boiler, melt chocolate and butter, and whisk until smooth. In a saucepan over high heat, combine water and sugar, and boil 3 minutes to make simple syrup. Add syrup to melted chocolate. Whisk until smooth. Add egg and whisk until smooth.

Pour 1/4 cup batter into each prepared pan. Place pans in a roasting pan and pour in enough hot water to come halfway up the side of the cake pans. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until cakes have just stopped moving in the center, 20 minutes. (Check cakes after 10 minutes and rotate in the oven.) Remove cake pans from water and refrigerate until completely set, about 1 hour. Remove cakes from pans and chill until ready to serve.

Caramel-Rum Bananas and Sauce:

Yields 12 pieces and 1 1/4 cups sauce

1 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon glucose syrup (see Sources and Substitutions)
1/2 cup water
1/4 cup dark rum
1 large banana

To make caramel-rum bananas and sauce: In a saucepan over high heat, combine sugar, glucose syrup, and 1/4 cup water. Bring to a boil and continue cooking until sugar begins to caramelize. Remove from heat and add remaining 1/4 cup water and the rum. Be cautious, as caramel will spit when liquid is added. Return to heat and continue cooking until caramel reaches 219°F, about 10 minutes. Cool slightly.

Prepare bananas about 30 minutes before serving. Peel banana and slice into 12 rounds; place in a sealable plastic bag. Add warm caramel to bananas and allow to sit for 15 to 20 minutes. Remove bananas and put remaining caramel in a saucepan. Reduce over high heat 3 to 4 minutes. Cool.

Cocoa-Almond Brittle:

Yields 4 servings

1⁄4 cup granulated sugar
1⁄4 cup water
1/2 cup sliced almonds
1/2 teaspoon extra-dark cocoa powder

To make cocoa-almond brittle: Preheat oven to 325°F. In a saucepan over high heat, cook sugar and water for 2 minutes to make simple syrup.

In a bowl, combine almonds and cocoa powder. Add 2 tablespoons simple syrup. Stir until well coated. Spread almonds on a baking sheet lined with a nonstick, ovenproof sheet, such as a Silpat. Bake until sugar stops bubbling, 10 to 15 minutes. Brittle is done if it easily cracks apart when cooled. Cocoa-almond brittle can be stored in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 weeks.