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Pet Care Tips For Real Easter Bunnies

Rabbits can make great pets, and many parents give their children a real bunny as a present around Easter time. But often the rabbits are turned over to animal shelters when their owners discover that the care is more complicated than they anticipated or because the rabbit displayed behaviors that they didn't know how to handle.

The Early Show's resident veterinarian Debbye Turner has some helpful hints on proper rabbit care.

It is important to have the right living situation, be fully educated about proper rabbit care, and be ready to take care of this pet for up to 10 years.

Ownership:
Rabbits are not appropriate pets for very young children. They are prey animals in the wild, so they are naturally cautious and timid. A boisterous, rough-riding child would only serve to stress out and frighten a rabbit. Plus rabbits have very powerful back and leg muscles with fragile bones. If handled improperly, a rabbit can easily break his leg or back. In fact, while very social, rabbits don't necessarily like to be held and cuddled a lot. One veterinarian described the ideal rabbit owner as someone who enjoys observing as much as handling. And you can't be too bothered by rabbits' natural tendency to chew and dig.

Housing:
A rabbit's cage should be three to four feet long. While many rabbit breeders use wire mesh at the bottom of their cages, this can cause significant damage to the rabbit's feet. It is best to use cardboard that can be removed and discarded or just a hard surface that can be thoroughly cleaned.

Although outdoor cages are an option, our expert recommends pet rabbits live indoors. Rabbits are very social animals, and once acclimated, they enjoy the company of people. In this case, make sure to "rabbit proof" your home. Many rabbits love to chew, so electrical wires, plants, and expensive carpets should be kept out of the reach of your bunny. Also, your rabbit will want a quiet, safe place to hide and sleep; an inverted small box with an opening big enough for him to get in will do.

Exercise:
Rabbits should have lots of time out of the cage for exercise and exploration. Plus, rabbits need entertainment: provide plenty of play things, like an empty milk carton, plastic baby keys, or even an old towel.

Training:
Not only can rabbits learn to respond to their names, but they can be litter trained. The litterbox should be lined with newspaper strips or grass hay. Do not use pine or cedar shavings. The phenols in them can cause liver damage. Also, stay away from clay cat litter (the clumping and the non-clumping). The dust can cause respiratory problems, and the clumps can cause gastrointestinal blockage.

Diet:
The mainstay of a rabbit's diet should be grass hay (Timothy, Brome or Orchard Grass). They also need plenty of dark leafy vegetables, like spinach, broccoli, kale, endive, or escarole, and plenty of water at all times. Rabbits can be fed a high quality rabbit pellet but it should be in small amounts as a treat. Rabbits can and will become obese if you allow them to overeat.

Handling:
Never pick up a rabbit by the ears. It is important for a rabbit to feel secure when held. Support both the hind legs and front legs with each hand. Snuggle the rabbit close to the body, like cradling a football. If the rabbit begins to struggle then put him down right away. Trying to manhandle a struggling rabbit can result in broken legs, back, and necks.

Health:
Common health problems include overgrown teeth (which can lead to infections, abscesses and malnutrition), gastrointestinal disorders, ear infections, and respiratory infections.

Rabbits' teeth grow continuously throughout life, so it is important to provide an appropriate chewing surface so that they can keep them properly worn. Overgrown teeth can be painful, and a medical emergency. A piece of untreated wood, empty toilet paper rolls or empty paper towel rolls work well for this.

Rabbits' nails should also be clipped regularly. Be sure to have a veterinarian or expert rabbit breeder show the correct method. Overgrown nails can make it difficult for the rabbit to walk, cause scratches on you or your family, or can break off at the base and lead to infection.

Rabbits don't need annual vaccinations, but they do need to be seen by a veterinarian annually for a thorough physical exam. At sexual maturity (4-6 months) rabbits should be spayed or neutered. Spaying females virtually eliminates the possibility of getting uterine cancer. And neutered males display less aggression. Rabbits can be territorial. Males may even "spray" to mark territory (which means urinate on an area or item to give it the rabbit's distinct smell). They also mark by rubbing their chin on an object.

For more information, check out these Web sites:

  • House Rabbit Society
  • Rabbit Rescue & Rehab
  • American Rabbit Breeders Association
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