World

Old Ways Thrive In Modern City

November 14, 2000 / 2:46 PM EST / AP

For anyone who has seen the sultan on his throne, dressed in his silk outfit and crown, and surrounded by his loyal subjects, his speech at APEC seemed surprisingly modern.

At the conference center for the Asian-Pacific Economic Cooperation forum, his majesty appeared wearing a dark gray business suit and talked about the benefits of the new global economy and the I.T. revolution.

"Globalization, the revolution in information and communication technology and the new economy — they are the re-defining the global economic landscape," he said, reading from a teleprompter.

As he was introduced, the sultan's 28-word name and title were shortened to three words: Sultan Hassanal Bolkiah.

In a traditional Muslim country with strict rules banning alcohol sales and sex between unmarried Muslims, the audience of businessmen and journalists appeared in formal outfits, as ordered, with men in suits and ties and women in modest outfits that covered their arms and legs.

Before leaving the stage, the sultan rang the royal bell put on the stage in his honor. And as he left the hall, some of his women subjects rushed to the cordoned off area to watch him walk by.

Brunei Darussalam means "Brunei, country of peace," and the streets paved with oil and natural gas money are certainly peaceful.

One thing notably missing from the APEC summit: Mass groups of the anti-globalization protesters who turned out to disrupt other recent world economic meetings in Seattle, Washington, Prague and elsewhere.

In fact, no activists at all have been noted in tiny Brunei, where the sultan wields absolute power — his portrait is on display virtually everywhere — and dissent is all but unknown.

Brunei authorities made it known weeks ago that recognized activists from environmental, anti-poverty and labor rights groups were unwelcome. Riot police were on hand in case any naysayers slipped through to spoil the country's moment in the global spotlight.

But Brunei may not have touted this aspect of the meeting to the visiting dignitaries.

U.S. Trade Representative Charlene Barshefsky was asked whether she was worried about the lack of demonstrators.

"I don't know if it bothers me or not," Barshefsky said. "I assume they certainly could come."

A reporter filled her in on the ways of Brunei.

"If that's the case, that certainly makes me quite sad," Barshefsky said.

For the capital of a small Muslim nation, Bandar Seri Begawan is looking like an American shopping mall at Christmas time, with twinkling lights lining its wide streets and signs proclaiming grand sales.

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The Pacific Rim Region

APEC Nations are:
Australia, Brunei, Canada, Chile, China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, Japan, Malaysia, Mexico, New Zealand, Papua New Guinea, Peru, the Philippines, Russia, Singapore, South Korea, Taiwan, Thailand, the United States and Vietnam.

The boulevards have been strung with light bulbs, often rigged in shapes of multi-layered water fountains. Buildings are bathed by spotlights or outlined in strings of light.

The Yayasan Complex, Bandar Seri Begawan's main shopping center, has an exhibition on "Islamic Financial Progress and Development in Brunei." Flanking that are designer boutiques offering discounts of up to 70 percent on the latest Western fashions.

"Stores are offering more than 50 percent off regular prices, but sales are still slow," said Mohamad Shahnawaz, a salesman at a jeans store. He said sales haven't come close to the levels before the Asian economic crisis of 1997-98.

Although Brunei remains conservative, stores display body-hugging dresses and tight jeans popular among the young women. More traditional Bruneian women wear the headscarves and long-sleeved dresses with floral patterns that drape the ankles.