Lanvin + H&M: How the Fast Fashion Retailer Hooked France's Oldest Haute Couture
The rumors are true. Lanvin, the venerable Parisian house of couture since 1889, is teaming up with H&M, Sweden's juggernaut of trendy threads. While fashionistas across the globe kick up their stilettos (and stake out a square on the sidewalk in front of one of the lucky 200 H&M shops that will carry the collection starting November 23) brand managers should take note. H&M's no stranger to snagging coveted designer collabs, but this time, the company used some clever semantics -- and great timing -- to sell the concept.
Alber Elbaz, the Israeli designer who's been at the helm of house of Lanvin since 2001 -- and credited with its much-lauded revitalization â€"- was not a fan of fast fashion for the masses. This is the guy who famously said,
I have a problem to do a collection that is a secondary line. I mean, you don't want to be the stepsister. You want to be Cinderella. Show me one girl who wants to be the stepsister
just last year.
But even Elbaz could see the writing on the wall as the luxury market continued to flounder. He agreed to a collaboration with Swedish premium denim brand Acne and told Vogue,
And I think that for me commercial is not a bad word. Commercial is not the word that has to be said only by CEOs. It has to be something that is maybe the essence of design, because design has some sort of art in it and creation, but it's also some object that you have to use.
Moving into accessories boosted Lanvin's bottom line 29 percent last year. But relying on an "it" handbag every season is a risky proposition among fickle fashionistas and frivolous footwear (think Mongolian lamb frosted pumps) isn't always going to carry the day -- especially at $1,990 a pair.
Cue H&M's management to move in for the kill. By sweet talking a notoriously squirrely designer who clearly can see that even at its most haute, the house of Lanvin still has to be profitable, fast fashion wins the day.
In a press release from the company, Elbaz says,
H&M approached us to collaborate, and see if we could translate the dream we created at Lanvin to a wider audience, not just a dress for less. I have said in the past that I would never do a mass-market collection, but what intrigued me was the idea of H&M going luxury rather than Lanvin going public. This has been an exceptional exercise, where two companies at opposite poles can work together because we share the same philosophy of bringing joy and beauty to men and women around the world.
Et voila. Elbaz's vision for Lanvin remains intact (sort of), H&M seals a deal that is sure to sell out minutes after it hits the floor, and bargain-hungry aspirational shoppers will be able to sport a Lanvin label. A clear win for all.
Image of Lanvin F/W10 via ritzyriches.com
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