Colin Cowie's Comfort Food

If you're looking for expert tips on how to throw the perfect dinner party - look no further. Colin Cowie, the host of "Everyday Elegance," has a new book out called "Colin Cowie - Dinner After Dark - Sexy, Sumptuous Supper Soirees" that is filled with tips for those who may not have that magic touch.

It is full of dinner party ideas, from the theme, to the decor, to the table settings to the food.

On Tuesday's The Early Show, find out how to throw a fabulous dinner party with delicious, comfort-type foods for the fall. Cowie will demonstrate how to make meatloaf with mushroom gravy, and for dessert - triple chocolate delight.

Read an excerpt from his book:

Dining in the Hearth
For 4

It's Tuesday, four o'clock, the end of a chilly, overcast late-winter afternoon. You've been slaving at your desk for hours, and you're in the mood for some company this evening. You get on the phone with Prudence, whom you haven't seen in what feels like ages. "What are you doing for dinner tonight?" you ask. She suggests a restaurant. You say, "Forget it, I dined out at Town last night. Come on over. We'll have dinner in the kitchen. Bring a fabulous bottle of red wine and I'll cook something fabulous."

I try to do as much spontaneous, last-minute entertaining as possible. There's nothing as enjoyable as an impromptu home-cooked meal with friends. But to do it, it's absolutely essential to have several reliable, easy, tasty dishes up your sleeve. This menu showcases a few of my favorites. The evening is chic and simple, unpretentious and unexpected. It's not about fancy food or expensive accessories. Take, for example, the candles, which I purchased a year ago for one of my television shows: They're attractive, and they burn forever.

The recipes are updated, quick-and-easy versions of several classics—with my edge. When you think of comfort food, it's generally for a winter or cold-weather meal. In this case, I injected a traditional note of spring with the asparagus, which is now available year-round in most markets.

Like anybody who loves to cook, I spend a lot of time in my kitchen. A few years ago, I decided to transform the space with an eye toward entertaining. The walls were creamy white; the cabinets were dark wood, typical for a pre-war New York City apartment. I painted the walls with several layers of oxblood red, giving them a lacquered finish that's easy to keep clean. I rolled out some Turkish rugs and suspended an overscaled Turkish eye for good luck over the kitchen sink. (It was a gift from my friend Hakan Ezer from Istanbul.) I put four barstools around the stainless-steel work table in the middle of the room and acquired small tablecloths in myriad colors. I also installed a couple of speakers hooked up to my main music system. Now I dine there at least once a day. All I have to do is put on my favorite new CD, and adjust the dimmer switch, and I've magically transformed what was once a strictly utilitarian room into an intimate dining space.

I always try to think graphically when I'm arranging a tabletop. In this case, I created a kind of organic fire-and-earth checkerboard. First, I placed a couple of sapling trees in terra-cotta pots and transplanted some live moss balls from plastic containers into rocks glasses. (You can find these types of items at any nursery or flower shop.) I filled the empty spaces with black square-pillar candles, creating a look that is contemporary and cool, almost like a self-contained miniature Japanese garden.

Keep it Simple

One of the classic mistakes many people make is they try to get too complicated. They think that by adding ingredients, by making more complex recipes, they're making a better party. Wrong.

The more complicated a recipe, the greater the margin for error. I'm a firm believer that whenever you cook, you should take the world's finest ingredients and do as little to them as possible. Keep the recipes simple and focus on the occasion. See the big picture; plan the details.

The Menu: Supper for Four

Appetizer
Mixed Asparagus with Vinaigrette

Main Course
Homemade Meatloaf with Mushroom Gravy
Sautéed Green Beans (optional)
Macaroni and Cheese

Dessert
Triple Chocolate Delight

To Drink
Wine and Coffee
No need to serve elaborate cocktails with this meal. We had a nice bottle of South African cabernet sauvignon—before the meal and with the main course, though not with the asparagus; they clash. For the chocolate dessert, a demitasse of good coffee is an excellent option.

Timing: This is a super-relaxed meal where the guests can sit in the kitchen and enjoy a glass of wine while I'm completing my last-minute preparations. The total preparation time is less than two hours. Make the cake in advance (or buy it already made). Prepare the meatloaf earlier and put it in the oven well before the guests arrive. Then proceed with the macaroni and cheese, the asparagus, and the beans (optional).

Nesting

The harder we work, the more fragmented and capitalistic our society becomes, the more we want to go back to nesting. Nesting is about enjoying our home as a place of refuge from all the noise and bustle outside; it's about preparing comfort food for an intimate gathering in the kitchen or den. Entertaining at home can be so much more meaningful than large cocktail parties and sit-down dinners for eight or more.

Mixed Asparagus with Vinaigrette

I use a couple of simple touches to jazz up this "standard." First, I select two types of asparagus for visual appeal. Second, I add a dash of truffle oil to the vinaigrette, which already possesses an inherent richness from the walnut oil; with essence of truffle it soars to new heights.

For the asparagus

2 tablespoons coarse salt
1 teaspoon sugar
2 bunches (approximately 16 spears or 1 pound) of medium-large white asparagus, woody stems trimmed and peeled, tied with white kitchen twine
2 bunches (approximately 16 spears or 1 pound) of medium-large green asparagus, woody stems trimmed and peeled (see 411), tied with white kitchen twine

For the vinaigrette

2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/3 cup sherry vinegar
1/3 cup plus 2 tablespoons walnut oil
2/3 cup vegetable oil (such as canola or grapeseed oil)

1. Add the salt and sugar to a large pot of water and bring to a boil. Add the white asparagus and cook over medium heat for 15 minutes, until tender. Remove with tongs to a colander, refresh with cold running water, drain well, and set aside.
2. Add the green asparagus to the same pot of boiling water and cook for 5 to 6 minutes, or until tender. Remove, drain in a colander, refresh with cold running water, drain well, and set aside.
   (Be sure to cook the white asparagus first; otherwise, it may turn greenish in the other's cooking water.)
3. Meanwhile, make the vinaigrette: In a blender, combine the mustard, salt, pepper, and vinegar. With the motor running on low, gradually add the oils until the mixture emulsifies; the oils should be added very slowly in order to render the dressing thick and creamy. Adjust the seasonings to taste.
4. Divide the asparagus into 4 equal portions (approximately 8 stalks each), arrange on plates, and dress generously with the vinaigrette.

The key here is baking the meatloaf in a terrine or loaf pan—its dimensions should be 10 X 3 X 3 inches. This serves the dual purpose of keeping it moist (the juices are held in) and making it eminently presentable.

2 slices soft white sandwich bread
1 cup whole milk
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 cup finely chopped onion (from 1 medium onion)
1/4 cup finely chopped carrot (from 1 small carrot)
1/4 cup finely chopped celery (from 1 stalk of celery)
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon coarse sea salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon dried red pepper flakes
2 large eggs
1/4 cup ketchup
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
2 pounds ground beef
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil
1 teaspoon chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary

1. Preheat the oven to 350°F.
2. Cut the crust off the slices of bread. In a small bowl, soak the bread in the milk for 15 minutes, then drain and squeeze to remove excess liquid.
3. Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium-low heat. Add the onion, carrot, celery, and garlic. Cook 10 minutes, or until the vegetables are soft. Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
4. Combine the sautéed vegetables with all the other ingredients in a large mixing bowl. Mix by hand until all the ingredients are well incorporated.
5. Fill the terrine pan with the meat mixture. Place the terrine in a slightly larger baking pan to catch any dripping grease. Bake in the middle part of the preheated oven for 1 hour and 10 minutes. Use a toothpick test to determine doneness: When the juice runs clear and the toothpick comes out clean, the meatloaf is ready. Serve with the mushroom gravy.

2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1/2 medium yellow onion, diced (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 pound white button mushrooms, rinsed, patted dry, and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 cups Veal Stock or Chicken Stock

1. Melt the butter in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté for 2 minutes, or until soft. Add the mushrooms and sauté until golden brown, about 5 minutes. Add the flour and cook 1 to 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
2. Add the stock and allow to come to a boil. Add the salt and pepper, and continue to boil until thickened, 5 to 10 minutes. Adjust the seasoning and serve.

Haricots verts, of course, is French for "green beans." The French variety is a true string bean—smaller, more delicate, greener, and definitely better than the thick ones.

1 tablespoon plus 1/4 teaspoon salt
1 pound haricots verts
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 shallot, minced
1 garlic clove, minced
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

1. Place 1 tablespoon of the salt in a large pot of water and bring to a boil. Add the beans and cook over medium heat until tender but still slightly crunchy (al dente), about 4 minutes. Drain in a colander and refresh under cold water to halt cooking.
2. While the beans are cooking, melt the butter in a large sauté pan over medium-low heat, add the shallot and garlic, and cook for 1 to 2 minutes, or until soft. Add the drained beans, toss, season with the 1⁄4 teaspoon each of the salt and pepper, and serve.

This is the ultimate comfort food, truly nurturing and delicious. To give it an edge of extra richness, I suggest a top-quality imported Gruyère cheese. You could buy a standard super-market-quality Cheddar or Monterey Jack but, trust me, there is a difference; with Gruyère, the result is superior in both flavor and consistency.

1 pound ziti (or other small tube-shaped pasta)
1 teaspoon coarse salt,
plus more for the pasta water
1 cup whole milk
2 cups heavy cream
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 cups grated Gruyère cheese
(from about 1⁄2 pound)
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
(from about 2 ounces)
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, plus more to taste
Butter for greasing pan

1. Preheat the oven to 375°F.
2. Cook the pasta in a large pot of salted boiling water until halfway done, about 6 minutes; do not overcook. Drain well and transfer to a large mixing bowl.
3. Meanwhile, place the milk, cream, and garlic in the same pot over medium heat and bring to a boil. Add the cooked pasta in the mixing bowl. Add 1 cup of the grated Gruyère plus the 1⁄2 cup of grated Parmigiano-Reggiano to the bowl and mix well. Season with salt and pepper.
4. Butter an ovenproof glass dish approximately 8 X 12 X 13 inches, transfer the pasta mixture to the dish, and sprinkle the remaining Gruyère evenly on top. Bake for 30 minutes or until crispy and golden on top.

Triple Chocolate Delight

How's this for a decadent finale? My favorite ice cream for this sinful trio is Godiva's Chocolate Hazelnut Truffle. If anything's going to send you over the top, it will. Any good chocolate ice cream will do, but this one is the best in my opinion. Despite the decadence, this cake is easy to prepare; all the mixing is done in a food processor with the steel blade attached. For a lighter touch, substitute chocolate sorbet for the ice cream.

For the Cake

Butter for greasing the pan
1/2 cup semisweet chocolate morsels
1/2 cup blanched whole almonds
1 stick (1/4 pound) plus 2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
Scant 1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon Dutch-process cocoa
Dash of salt
1/2 cup shelled hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons confectioners' sugar, to sprinkle as garnish
1 pint chocolate ice cream
1 batch Chocolate Sauce (recipe follows)
Parchment paper for lining the pan

1. Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2. Grease an 8 3 8-inch baking pan or ovenproof dish with butter. Line with parchment paper, then coat the paper with butter.
3. Combine the chocolate morsels and the almonds in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Pulse about 10 times, or until the almonds and chocolate are ground into fine morsels. Set aside.
4. Combine the stick of butter and the granulated sugar in the food processor and process until light and fluffy. Add the eggs, one at a time, and continue processing. Add the reserved chocolate mixture and continue processing. Add the flour until all the ingredients are well combined.
5. Place 1/4 cup water in a saucepan over medium heat. Bring the water almost to a simmer. Stir in the cocoa and salt until dissolved. Remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly, then add to the bowl of the food processor, and process until well blended. Fold in the hazelnuts.
6. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake for 55 to 60 minutes, until a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean. Cool in the pan or on a rack for 1 hour.
7. Cut the cake into individual portions. Place each portion in the center of a plate. To serve, sprinkle the cake with the confectioners' sugar, place a scoop of chocolate ice cream on each cake, and pour chocolate sauce on top.

2/3 cup sugar
1 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
4 ounces semisweet chocolate, grated
2 tablespoons rum

1. Place 1 cup water, the sugar, and the cocoa powder in a small saucepan over medium heat. Stir until the sugar is dissolved.
2. Reduce the heat to low, then add the grated chocolate and the rum. Stir the sauce until it is very smooth. If you make it in advance, keep it warm in a double boiler over medium-low heat until ready to serve.