Cartagena Pins Its Hopes On Clinton

No matter how bad things get in Colombia, the violence-wracked South American country can always put its best face forward with Cartagena, the gem of a Spanish-colonial seaport being visited by President Clinton.

The walled Caribbean city is the government's ace-in-the-hole for providing foreign dignitaries with flawless weather, fresh seafood, pulsating music and relative peace.

The city was even more attractive than usual for Clinton's 9-hour visit Wednesday thanks to a mildly controversial $850,000 makeover that forced vendors and beggars off the street, repaved roads and repainted pastel-colored buildings.

Some local politicians have questioned the makeover for the brief visit, given the city's tight budget and a severe nationwide recession including 20 percent unemployment. Others say Clinton should be given a more realistic view of the nation.

"It would be better if he didn't just see Cartagena's beauty, but also got a look at what goes on in Colombia and visited areas affected by guerrilla violence and drug trafficking," said Adalberto Martinez, a court employee.

Mayor Gina Benedetti defended the work, and many residents were brimming with pride.

"We've never seen Cartagena so beautiful, peaceful and safe," said taxi driver Nelson Duran. "Clinton should come more often."

Foreign Minister Guillermo Fernandez joked Tuesday that President Clinton is "the best public works chairman Cartagena has ever had."

If President Clinton is impressed, Cartagena may get more than just a makeover. The city is reportedly seeking exemption from a U.S. government travel advisory that warns U.S. citizens to stay away from Colombia and its rampant crime and kidnappings.

The city is a relative oasis in the country's sea of violence, despite its large population of war refugees. It is by far Colombia's top tourist destination.

In addition to painting houses and walls that withstood attacks by English pirates more than 300 years ago, workers have been patching potholes, fixing broken street lamps and raking trash off the beach.

Between meetings to discuss a $1.3 billion aid plan to help Colombia stem the country's booming cocaine and heroin trade, Clinton was to tour the UNESCO-protected seaport.

He also was scheduled to ride a horse-drawn carriage around Cartagena's walled historic center, erected by the Spanish at the edge of a breezy turquoise bay. Street vendors who typically clog the cobblestone streets were banned during the visit, and homeless children who often harass tourists for change are put up in temporary housing.

By Javier Baena
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