A Modern Twist On French Cuisine

Chef Laurent Tourondel has been wowing food critics and diners alike with his modern twist on French cuisine. He is the executive chef at Cello restaurant, which nestled on the upper East Side of Manhattan.

He has agreed to take our Chef On A Shoestring challenge -- creating a three-course meal for four with our $30 budget.

The Menu:

Vine Ripe Tomatoes, French Beans, Arugula With Crottin Au Poivre Cheese
Papillote Of Rainbow Trout With Endive
Honey Marinated Melon Soup With Frozen Yogurt

Rainbow trout is part of a large group of fishes belonging to the same family as salmon and whitefish. Though most trout are freshwater fish, some live in marine waters. When the first European settlers arrived in North America, trout were very abundant.

But by the late 1860s, a number of factors (including over-fishing and pollution) caused the trout population to diminish drastically. Today, trout are plentiful and vary widely in appearance and size. In general, their flesh is firm-textured with medium-to-high fat content. Rainbow trout, though native to California, has been transplanted to many different countries and is now one of the most popular varieties in the world.

"En papillote" refers to food baked inside a wrapping of greased parchment paper. As the food bakes and lets off steam, the parchment puffs up into a dome shape. At the table, the paper is slit and peeled back to reveal the food.

The following are Chef Tourondel's recipes:

Vine Ripe Tomatoes, French Beans, Arugula Salad With Crottin Au Poivre Cheese
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 avocado peeled and sliced
1/2 bunch basil, washed and chopped
1/4 pound Haricot Verts
1/2 pound vine-ripen tomato, cut in eight pieces
1/2 red onion; thinly sliced
1 bunch arugula, washed and picked
1 bulb fennel; sliced very thin
4 oz Crottin Au Poivre Cheese, divided equally into four portions
5 tbsp olive oil
3 tbsp balsamic vinegar
Salt and pepper

Method:
To prepare dressing
In a bowl combine olive oil, balsamic vinegar, salt and pepper.

To prepare salad:

1. In a bowl combine avocado, chopped basil, Haricot Verts, tomato, onion and dressing.
   
2. In a separate bowl mix together arugula and fennel, and pour the remaining dressing, setting some aside for garnish.

1. On a plate assemble avocado, basil, Haricot Verts, tomato, and onion. Top with arugula, fennel and Crottin au Poivre Cheese.
   
2. Drizzle dressing around the outside of the plate.
   
3. Add basil leaves for garnish.

The classic technique for papillote uses parchment paper, but aluminum foil is often more convenient at home, and works just as well.

Ingredients:
1 1/4 pound of rainbow trout filet cut into 4 portions, bone out
1/4 pound blanched English peas
1/4 pound of white mushroom sliced
1/4 pound of endive sliced
2 scallions sliced
6 tbsp of white wine
4 tbsp of olive oil
Salt and pepper

Method:
Preheat oven to 375°F.

To Prepare the Papillote

1. Season the fish with salt and pepper.
   
2. Lay one filet on each of 4 pieces of parchment paper or foil.
   
3. Lay the English peas, mushrooms, endive and scallions on top of filet.
   
4. Divide the white wine and olive oil.
   
5. Moisten edges of parchment paper with water.
   
6. Wrap the parchment paper around the fish and fold the edges of the paper on each side.

Marinated Melon Soup With Frozen Yogurt
Serves 4

Ingredients:
1 large cantaloupe melon
3/4 cup water
1/2 pint frozen vanilla yogurt
1/2 cup honey
1 tsp grated ginger
1 lime zested
6 tablespoons lime juice
mint leaf

Method:
To prepare the melon

1. Cut the melon in half and scrape out the seeds.
   
2. Using a small Parisienne spoon, cut out 1/4-inch balls. Reserve.

1. In a bowl, combine the water, honey, ginger, lime zest and lime juice.
   
2. Cool down in refrigerator for 30 minutes. Pour over the melon balls and allow to marinate in the refrigerator for 2 hours.

1. In each bowl, divide the melon balls evenly.
   
2. Place one scoop of frozen yogurt in the center of the melon.
   
3. Pour the soup around the melon and garnish with mint.

He returned to New York City to launch Cello in 1999. It received a three-star review by New York Times writer William Grimes.