Foodie Chap: The Ahwahnee, Yosemite Park

KCBS radio 'Foodie Chap' and CBS 5 television 'Eye On The Bay' host Liam Mayclem introduces us to the culinary stars behind the food and wine loved by so many in the Bay Area.

By Liam Mayclem, the KCBS Foodie Chap

Percy Whatley has been the Executive Chef of The Ahwahnee since 2005. The Ahwahnee is Yosemite National Park's four diamond, historic national landmark hotel.

Initially arriving in Yosemite in 1989, Whatley's culinary career began as a cook at the Hamburger Stand in Curry Village. He earned an Associates of Science Degree in Business Management from The College of the Redwoods in Eureka, California, and returned to Yosemite in 1994, joining the ranks of The Ahwahnee as Chef de Partie.

"Cooking to me is making people happy through food". - Percy Whatley

In January 1996, Whatley enrolled at the prestigious Culinary Institute of America (CIA), New York, graduating with honors in October 1997. Soon thereafter, he returned to The Ahwahnee as Sous Chef where he honing his culinary skills to serve the cultured palates of Ahwahnee guests.

His approach to food is keep it simple and seasonal. Almost every dish giving a nod to local purveyors.

Chef Whatley also oversees the special menus at the Ahwahnee's famed seasonal events:

Bracebridge Dinners: attended recently by Chef Thomas Keller.

Chef's Holidays: In January into February each year, 24 chefs from around the country are guests in The Ahwahnee kitchen: James Beard Award Winners and Nominees, Top Chef contestants, Next Iron Chef contestants. Yours truly has played Master of Ceremonies.

Twice Whatley has been selected as a semi-finalist for the prestigious Bocuse d'Or USA competition. In 2010, Whatley received the coveted Best Meat Presentation award.

Chef and I sat for a chat in the famous Ahwahnee dining room with the buzz of lunching guests and busy servers on the go. His popular and potent Pappardelle Pasta with Braised Boar and Sweet Onion Soubise had my nose happily twitching throughout our conversation.

5 Questions with Chef Percy

1. What one food could you never give up?

Pork Belly!

2. What dish reminds you of home?

Home Fries.

3. The cooking moment you are most proud of?

Cooking for Chef Thomas Keller doing a holiday meal hear at The Ahwahnee Bracebridge meal. It was great.

LM: Did he finish everything on the plate?

Chef: He cleaned it out.

4. What is your Sunday morning breakfast?

Two things and each end of the spectrum. Eggs Benedict and Yogurt & Granola.

5. You are planning your LAST SUPPER. What will you eat and who would your dinner guests be?

My dinner guests would be Chef Auguste Escoffier and my mentor Roland Hennin. We'd eat a big steak, a cote de beouf, a big boning rib-eye chop, cooked medium rare with a little sea salt.

LM: And who is cooking?

Chef: You are.
(much laughter)

LM: Chef Percy Thank you.

Chef: Thank you.

Percy Whatley's Pappardelle Pasta with Braised Boar and Sweet Onion Soubise
(Pictured above)

Yield: 6 Portions

Dry Pappardelle Pasta – 1 lb
Pecorino Romano, grated or shaved - 2 Tblsp or as desired
Boar Shoulder – 2 lb
Pork or Boar Stock (or beef broth) – 1 qt
Red Wine - ½ cup
Thyme Leaves - pinch
Parsley, chopped roughly - 1 tblsp
Sage, chopped roughly – 2 tsp
Garlic, bruised whole clove – 6 ea
Onions, sliced julienne – 4 large
Butter – 4 oz
Chicken Broth – 1 cup

1. Sear and braise the boar shoulder with the pork stock, red wine, garlic and herbs for 6 hours. A crock pot or Dutch oven inside a 300F oven will yield a perfectly tender wild boar roast. Remove from heat and let cool for 1 hour. Remove the meat from the juice and continue to let cool so that you can handle it to roughly shred the meat and remove any excess fat.

2. Skim the fat from the braising liquid, strain the garlic and herbs out and place over medium-high heat to reduce. Taste this sauce for seasoning and make sure that you do not reduce it too much and it will become too salty. Reduce by half, season to your liking and set aside for the addition to your pasta. When you are ready to serve, add the shredded/chopped meat back to the liquid and warm it over medium heat.

3. For the soubise, in a wide sauce pot or a straight sided sauté pan, cook the onions, butter and chicken broth together over low heat, stirring occasionally. The onions will become translucent after a few minutes but keep cooking this covered for 30 minutes, add water if necessary. You do not want any color other than white.

4. Remove onions from pan to a blender, blend until smooth (be careful because it is HOT!!!). Season with salt and pepper and reserve in a warm place.

5. Cook pasta al dente with salted boiling water. Strain.

6. In a large mixing bowl, add pasta and warm soubise together. Season with salt and pepper to your liking.

7. Add the tossed pasta mixture to a serving bowl and top this with the wild boar and some of the braising liquid. Garnish with Pecorino Romano.

8. Serve with any seasonal vegetable that you wish and bon appétit!

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