San Joaquin County nonprofit uses farming to combat food deserts, support Black communities

A San Joaquin County nonprofit is using farming to address food access challenges in underserved communities while encouraging more Black Americans to pursue agriculture.

On a plot of land in French Camp, Glenn McMillon and the Black Urban Farmers Association are growing fruits and vegetables they hope can help fill a gap in communities where fresh, affordable produce can be hard to find.

"We wanted to grow produce that was pesticide-free, all-natural and consistent with foods that are unique to the African American diet," said McMillon, a co-founder of the nonprofit.

Addressing food deserts in San Joaquin County

McMillon helped launch the Black Urban Farmers Association, also known as BUFA, in 2015 with a group of 12 people who wanted to address what they saw as a lack of access to fresh foods in many Black and Latino neighborhoods.

"One of the needs that we wanted to address is the food desert itself," McMillon said. "The fact that there are no Safeways, Walmarts or Food 4 Less stores in certain communities, particularly Black and brown communities."

The organization grows fruits and vegetables without pesticides and distributes produce while also teaching residents how to grow their own food through workshops, fairs and community events.

McMillon said the affordability of organic produce remains a major concern.

"It's priced too high. So people in our community, a number of people in our community cannot afford organic produce that Walmart, Safeway, or Food 4 Less and other big chains may provide," he said.

From a small farm to a wider mission

Over the past decade, BUFA has expanded beyond farming. The operation now includes livestock, educational programs and a network of volunteers helping sustain the nonprofit's work.

McMillon credits fellow co-founder Reatha Hardy-Jordan with helping grow the organization after two key members of the original leadership team relocated to Texas.

"She put in a lot of time, prayer, energy and expertise," McMillon said. "She connected with a number of organizations and she grew this."

McMillon said the work has given him a new respect for farming after not being exposed to it while growing up in New Orleans.

"I grew up in New Orleans ... in the projects," he said. "We didn't have no trees, no grass, so this was new to me."

Black farmers face barriers nationwide

The challenges facing Black farmers extend well beyond California.

According to John Boyd Jr., president of the National Black Farmers Association, the number of Black farmers in the United States has declined dramatically over the past century.

Boyd, a fourth-generation farmer and longtime civil rights advocate, said generations of Black farmers have faced barriers accessing government loans and agricultural assistance programs.

"Many people thought the civil rights fight was over in the '60s," Boyd said. "Man, it carried over into the '80s and early '90s, the way that they were treating Black farmers."

Boyd said he personally experienced discrimination while applying for a federal farm loan in the 1980s and has spent decades advocating for minority farmers.

More recently, Boyd has criticized the elimination of federal programs aimed at helping farmers of color acquire land.

"We had certain grants that I personally worked on," Boyd said. "One was a $300 million grant that would allow Black and other farmers of color to purchase land, and this president totally eliminated the grant."

The U.S. Department of Agriculture has defended its approach under Agriculture Secretary Brooke Rollins, who has emphasized colorblind policies and a focus on serving all farmers equally.

"At times, the goal of seeing Americans fed has been replaced by prioritizing social issues that promote division, not unity," Rollins said. "As a taxpayer-funded department, it is our duty to ensure the highest quality of service, and this cannot be done when prioritizing politics over our mission." 

How to support BUFA

Despite the challenges, McMillon said BUFA remains focused on its mission of education, food access and community building.

"It's a joy to see a seed grow into a crop, something that you can actually eat that started out as a seed," McMillon said.

BUFA relies on community support through volunteers, donations and board members to continue expanding its programs.