White Bread's Whole-Grain Makeover

Robert Milton carefully inspects his slice of Sara Lee's Soft and Smooth Made with Whole Grain White Bread during a taste test held Tuesday, July 19, 2005, at Navy Pier in Chicago.
AP Photo/Sara Lee
Looks like white bread. Tastes like it, too. But is it?

It took scientists eight long years and millions of dollars to sneak whole grains into that spongy, yeasty icon of U.S. health-unconscious consumerism. Now that they've done it, food manufacturers have begun releasing a bevy of products they hope will get people to eat whole grains.

The thinking was to get more health into the bread and other products people like. But in the process, they've created some confusion, even as the U.S. Food and Drug Administration is still trying to define whole grain products.

ConAgra Foods Inc., one of the nation's largest food makers, spent at least eight years and several million dollars developing Ultragrain White Whole Wheat. The grain was bred for its properties and is not considered genetically modified, said Garth Neuffer, a spokesman for the Omaha, Neb.-based company. The company won't disclose its sales expectations for Ultragrain products.

One year since its unveiling, Ultragrain is turning up in cookies, pasta, crackers and other products.

Sara Lee Corp., one of ConAgra's larger customers, last month launched its Soft & Smooth bread, a loaf with Ultragrain that appears white, but is 30 percent whole grain. Meanwhile, Interstate Bakeries Corp.'s Wonder Bread — a name synonymous with fluffy white bread — is test-marketing its own white bread with 100 percent whole grain, and plans a wide release next year.

It's the business of balancing kids' finicky tastes with the government's nutritional guidelines that's attracting people like Tammy Yarmon, director of nutrition services for Omaha Public Schools. Products that pack extra fiber or other nutrients make the balancing act easier as she tries to average out nutritional requirements — guidelines recommend at least three daily servings of whole grain — over a week.

"The hardest thing is to get a kid to eat something that's brown or anything that looks like it has seeds in it," Yarmon said.

About 2,600 school districts have signed up to carry at least one of ConAgra's Ultragrain items — which include burritos, chimichangas and Max pizza, a pie made with a crust that's half whole grain — Neuffer said.

"One of our main goals is the education of our students for better nutrition. So we will use some education with this pizza to let them know it does have more fiber than regular pizza crust," said Yarmon, whose charges gobble up pizza at the rate of 28,000 slices a month.

But not everyone likes the new products. With fat kids in the headlines and obesity now called an epidemic, experts are divided on Ultragrain's merits.

Touting these products as whole grain is a marketing gimmick that could confuse well-meaning parents, said Dr. Fred Pescatore, a Manhattan internist who specializes in nutrition.

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