Unforeseen Beauty Amongst The Andes
Flying between the clouds, the drifting fog gently lifts over the Andes Mountains that surround Bogotá, Colombia, revealing glimpses of snow-capped mountain tops, green pastures and sun-kissed, shadowy valleys that encompass the urban jungle below.
One of the most spectacular vistas from above, Bogota's vast and expansive city thrives as the two worlds of modernization and antiquated life gradually mesh together with each passing year.
Colombia is blessed with natural riches of coffee beans, known as some of the best in the world, exotic fruits and flowers, precious emerald stones, a spectacular gold collection from its ancient past, and herbal remedies from the Amazon.
With a tarnished reputation caused by its tumultuous past and present involving narco-trafficking and kidnappings by the Revolutionary Armed Forces of Colombia, cultivation and corruption have plagued parts of the country, shielding the true beauty and essence of Colombian culture.
If you know the right places to visit and don't venture too far off the beaten path, you will find that the country is safe for the most part and a hidden gem that many tourists aren't aware of, or are too cynical to visit. As with any city, you have to be aware of your surroundings and take the proper precautions.
Photos: Images of Bogota and Zipaquira
Recently, I had the opportunity to visit Bogotá and surrounding towns to reunite with family on my father's side. It had been 13 years since I last visited Colombia and it had been almost 30 years for my father, who was born in Bogotá, but moved to the U.S. at age 15 and became a U.S. citizen.
Since a majority of people there don't speak English, it is a good idea to learn some key phrases to get you around. Have a Spanish/English dictionary on hand.
While visiting Colombia, your money can go a long way, which makes the trip very appealing. Although there are slight changes in the conversion at times, the U.S. dollar is strong in Colombia, with one U.S. dollar equivalent to almost 2,000 Colombian pesos. So, you will be able to score some great deals, eat well, travel and not feel guilty about it. You will also get more bang for your buck in comparison to the Euro.
According to a recent article on Bloomberg.com, "almost 2 million foreign travelers checked into Colombia's hotels last year, bringing in $2 billion in foreign currency and helping maintain the fastest economic growth in almost 30 years. The Colombian economy grew 6.8 percent in 2006 compared with Mexico's 4.8 percent and Brazil's 3.7 percent. Foreign direct investment was $6.5 billion; triple the $2.1 billion in 2002."
Lodging is not hard to find in Bogotá. The suggested areas to stay in are La Candelaria, El Centro and La Zona Rosa. You can get nicer budget hostels that run from $5 USD for a one bedroom to $15 USD for a two bedroom with a bathroom. There are also many nice mid-range hotels ($40 USD) and expensive hotels ($100 USD) to choose from. For the real scoop on lodging, you can visit www.poorbuthappy.com, which is also a good source for finding good bars and up-to-date information from residents and travelers.
If you are traveling throughout Colombia to -- Calí, Cartagena and Santa Marta for example -- it's recommended that you take a flight instead of traveling hours by bus throughout the Andes Mountains, just to stay on the safe side.
In la Zona Rosa, nightlife thrives with outdoor restaurants and cafes that fill up with people sitting outside sipping their tinto (Colombian black coffee) or a popular Colombian beer called Costeña, which is has a light, non-watery taste.
Beware of a popular Colombian alcoholic beverage called Aguardiente ("firewater"), which is derived from sugar cane and has a 29 percent alcohol content. It's mostly consumed as a shot and isn't used in cocktails. It can catch up with you sooner than you think. Colombians are used to the "burning water," so I would advise trying one or two and leaving the rest to the locals.
Also, in the north you will find popular boutiques and shopping areas called Centro Comercial Andino, Hacienda Santa Bárbara, Bulevar Niza and Unicentro. You can also find little family-owned shops that have more of an authentic Colombian charm.
La Candelaria, a historical center in Bogotá with small shops and old churches is a must see. In the center of the plaza, you can see the statue of Simón Bolivar, who helped Colombia gain its independence as well as Venezuela, Ecuador, Peru, Panama and Bolivia.
Across the way is the National Capitoleum, seat of the Congress of the Republic, which has a facade of 12 columns. On the left side of the Plaza de Bolivar you will find the Catedral Primada de Bogotá, which is a beautiful representation of Spanish Colonial architecture. It also holds the remains of Gonzalo Jimenez de Quesada, who is known as "the founder of the city."
Don't be alarmed when you are in the center of Bogotá if you see armed military walking around; they are there to protect the city.
In Bogotá, you can cruise the marketplaces where stellar craftsmanship is on display from wicker furniture, woven baskets and hanging planters to colorful hammocks, leather purses, straw hats and your typical Colombian souvenirs to bring back to the States.
The Cerro de Montserrate, an Andes Mountain peak, is one of the most visited tourist attractions in Bogotá, which has the most spectacular panoramic views of the city. Monserrate is accessible by teleférico (cable car), funicular railway or by foot on walking trails. The teleférico (cable car) and funicular railway, which take about five minutes, are highly recommended instead of walking on foot to avoid any beggars that may cross your path.
After your trek up the mountain, a great place to eat some delicious, traditional Colombian food is Santa Clara Restaurant that overlooks a magnificent view of Bogotá. Built in 1924 in Usaquén, Santa Clara Restaurant is a beautiful white house that was moved to Monserrate in 1979.
While I was there, I dined on a scrumptious grilled Caribbean chicken dish with a light tropical sauce that wasn't too sweet or too salty. The entrée came with white rice and black beans, which tasted even better, mixed in with the sauce. For my beverage, I had the Colombiana, a Colombian soft drink that is called "champagne soda."
The Museo de Oro (Museum of Gold) beautifully showcases one of the largest gold collections in the world. The impressive pre-Columbian gold collection, made up of 33,000 pieces from 13 different cultures, once symbolized power held by ancient rulers and prominent leaders in society.
Some of the tastiest food that you can find are from the small cafes or street vendors, such as Arepa, (rice cakes) Almojabanas (a combination of bread and cheese) Pandeyuca, (yucca bread with cheese) Aguapanela, which is a warm tea-like beverage made from brown sugar. Even your average chicken with rice and beans dish is delicious because Colombian sauces are added to compliment the taste. Cacao, or hot chocolate, is much different in Colombia then it is in the U.S. because it is cooked on the stove from a dark, bittersweet chocolate bar. Oftentimes, Cacao is paired with cheese or bread.
While on vacation you have to indulge a little and not worry about your calorie intake, so a sweet treat that is a must-try is Arequipe. It is made from condensed milk and has a soft, caramel-like texture.
Colombian miners arduously constructed the mine, which was founded in 3 B.C. and has been extensively worked on for centuries. The mine was officially opened to the public in 1954, but was closed in 1992 for safety reasons; however, a new chamber was excavated 60 miles away and was opened for visitors in December 1995. The Catedral de Sal is 75 miles long and 18 miles high and it has the capacity to hold over 8,000 people.
The Catedral de Sal is open year round, from Tuesday to Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Guided tours in English and Spanish are available every half hour. Cost for an adult is $12 (USD) for adults, children (4-12) and $6 for seniors. There a group rates available. On Wednesdays the admission is half price, but there are no group reductions.
The Catedral de Sal is pretty accessible from Bogotá. You can take a bus in from Bogota's main terminal or you can take the Transmilienio to Portal de Norte (25, 50, 60, 70 and 100) and transfer to a feeder bus there. This method is cheaper and faster and will get you there in an hour to an hour and a half.
Another option is to take the "Tren de la Sabana" (Savannah train) which leaves on weekends and holidays at 8:30 a.m. from the "Estación de la sabana," which is in the Zona Norte. If you go on a Sunday, you can catch a mass at noon.
After taking in the sights of Bogotá and Zipaquirá, alas it was time to leave and to head back to New York City. I savored my last sips of the best coffee in the world and said farewell to my beloved aunt and cousins.
During my stay, I had the chance to see the genuineness of the people with their strong sense of faith and generosity, the sense of unity within the immediate and extended family, the respect towards elders, the delicious food and coffee, the love of music and dance and their passion for soccer -- all the perfect ingredients that make for a rich cultural experience. ¡Viva Colombia!
By Melissa Castellanos