On The Cob And On The Grill

For many people in America, corn defines summer and right now is the time to find corn at its seasonal best. In the ongoing Five-Minute Cooking School series with Williams-Sonoma, cookbook author and teacher Tori Ritchie tells us all about corn.

How Sweet It Is: Everybody wants to know how to tell if the corn they are buying is sweet. Here's how:

The following are her recipes:

Grilled Corn With Seasoned Butters
Fresh corn still in the husk takes wonderfully to grilling. Serve it with one or all of the seasoned butters here and a platter of ribs or chicken hot off the grill.

6 ears of corn
1/3 cup unsalted butter, at room temperature

For the pecan butter:
1/3 cup ground pecans

For the lime butter:
1 Tbs. grated lime zest
1 Tbs. fresh lime juice

For the chili butter:
2 Tbs. chili powder
1 tsp. cumin seeds

For the Italian herb butter:
2 tsp. minced fresh basil
2 tsp. minced fresh oregano

Method:

1. Prepare a fire in a covered grill.
2. Working with 1 ear of corn at a time, carefully pull back the husks but leave them attached. Remove and discard the silk, then replace the husks around the ear. Soak the ears in cold water to cover for at least 20 minutes and then drain.
3. To make the seasoned butter, in a small bowl, using a fork or a wooden spoon, beat the butter until soft. Mix in the ingredients of your choice until they are evenly distributed. Refrigerate if not using immediately.
4. Carefully pull back the husks from each ear and spread the seasoned butter of your choice evenly over the kernels. Replace the husks.
5. Place the corn on the grill rack, cover, open the vents, and grill until the husks are browned and the kernels are tender, about 15 minutes. Transfer the corn to a platter or individual plates and serve hot. Serves 6.

For the salsa:
3 ears of corn, shucked
2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped
1 small yellow onion, finely chopped
2 Tbs. olive oil
1 Tbs. red wine vinegar
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1/4 tsp. Tabasco or other hot-pepper sauce, or to taste
2 Tbs. finely chopped fresh parsley

For the salmon:
1/2 cup honey
2 Tbs. balsamic vinegar
1 Tbs. plus 2 tsp. vegetable oil
6 center-cut salmon fillets with skin intact, each 6 to 8 oz.
Salt and ground pepper, to taste

Method:

1. To make the salsa, prepare a hot fire in a grill. Place the corn on the grill rack 5 to 6 inches from the fire and cook, turning often, until the kernels have softened and are lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely, then cut off the kernels from each ear with a sharp knife, cutting the length of the ear and rotating it with each cut.
2. In a large bowl, combine the corn kernels, tomatoes, onion, oil, vinegar, salt, pepper and hot-pepper sauce. Stir well, then taste and adjust the seasonings. Cover and refrigerate. Stir in the parsley just before serving.
3. To prepare the salmon, in a small saucepan, stir together the honey, vinegar and the 1 Tbs. oil. Bring to a boil over high heat; reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring often, until reduced by half, 2 to 3 minutes.
4. In a heavy, large nonstick fry pan over medium-high heat, warm the 2 tsp. oil. Season the salmon with salt and pepper and place skin side down in the pan. Brush the tops generously with the honey mixture and cook for 5 minutes. Turn over the salmon and brush again with the honey mixture. Cook, turning occasionally and brushing with the honey mixture, until the salmon is glazed and opaque throughout, 5 to 7 minutes more. Transfer to warmed individual plates. Pass the salsa at the table. Serves 6.

White Corn Chowder
White corn goes quickly at California's farmers' markets because customers like its exceptional tenderness. And for city dwellers who don't have gardens, corn picked the day before (or sometimes early the same morning) is a real treat.

4 to 6 ears of white corn, husks and silk removed
4 Tbs. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/2 large yellow onion, minced
1 large celery stalk, minced
1 lb. russet potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
2 cups chicken broth
1 cup water
1 1/2 tsp. minced fresh thyme
1 cup half-and-half
Salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste
3 Tbs. thinly sliced fresh chives

Method:

1. Holding each ear of corn by its pointed end and steadying its stalk end on a cutting board, cut down along the ear with a sharp knife to strip off the kernels, turning the ear with each cut. You will need 4 cups corn kernels. Set aside.
2. In a large saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion and celery and sauté until soft, about 10 minutes. Add the potatoes, broth, water and thyme and bring to a simmer. Cover, adjust the heat to maintain a gentle simmer and cook until the potatoes are almost tender, about 8 minutes. Add the corn, cover and continue to simmer gently until the corn is tender, 3 to 5 minutes more.
3. Transfer about 4 cups of the soup solids to a food processor along with enough of the broth to achieve a puree. Secure the lid and cover with a kitchen towel. Process until smooth and return to the pan. Stir in the half-and-half and season with salt and pepper.
4. Reheat the soup gently over medium-low heat. Ladle into warmed soup bowls and garnish with the chives, dividing evenly. Serve immediately. Serves 6.

Corn Cakes With Smoked Salmon And Crème Fraiche
The crisp acidity of many dry sparkling wines is a refreshing counterpoint to the saltiness of smoked salmon. It also cuts through the richness that comes from frying these corn cakes and then serving them with crème fraîche.

The accent of the corn adds an implied toastiness, which is a hallmark of many French Champagnes. Dependable: non-vintage French Champagne. Daring: off-dry Riesling from Germany or the United States.

1 3/4 cups white or yellow corn kernels (from about 2 ears)
1/3 cup fine yellow cornmeal
1/3 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
1/2 cup milk
4 Tbs. (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
2 eggs
1/2 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup melted clarified unsalted butter or peanut oil, or as needed
16 small slices smoked salmon
1 cup crème fraîche
1/4 cup snipped fresh chives

Method:

1. Place the corn kernels in a food processor. Using on-off pulses, pulse only until a coarse puree forms. Do not over-process. Transfer to a bowl and whisk in the cornmeal and flour until smoothly incorporated.
2. In another bowl, whisk together the milk, melted butter and eggs until blended. Add to the corn mixture and stir to combine. Stir in the salt and pepper. (The batter may be prepared up to a few hours before cooking; cover and refrigerate until ready to use.)
3. Place a large nonstick or well-seasoned griddle or sauté pan over medium-high heat. When hot, brush with the clarified butter. Using about 2 Tbs. batter for each cake, ladle the batter onto the hot surface and spread to form cakes about 3 inches in diameter. The batter should sizzle when it hits the pan. Cook until golden on one side, about 3 minutes. Then turn and cook until the other side is golden and the center is set, about 2 minutes more. Transfer to a plate and keep warm until all the cakes are cooked.
4. To serve, place 2 corn cakes on each warmed individual plate. Top each corn cake with 2 slices of smoked salmon, a generous drizzle of crème fraîche and a sprinkling of chives. Serve immediately. Serves 4.