Dealing with Enemies of Beautiful Skin

Every day, we come face-to-face with the aging process when we look in the mirror.

But in "The Early Show Saturday Edition"'s special broadcast, "New Year, New You," Dr. Hilary Reich, a New York dermatologist, revealed the secrets to having healthy, beautiful, younger-looking skin. And they're not for-women-only!

She discussed the latest treatments and products with co-anchor Erica Hill and CBS News Medical Correspondent Dr. Jennifer Ashton.

According to Reich:

Having healthy skin not only helps you look good, but feel good, and boosts your self-esteem. It's empowering!

The five most common conditions I am asked about in my practice are acne, brown (age) spots, wrinkles, under-eye dark circles and, especially now in wintertime, dry skin.

All can be easily treated to enhance your overall look in the new year, prevent signs of aging for the long-term, and increase your self-esteem.

BROWN SPOTS

Brown spots are extra pigmentation deposited in the top layer of the skin caused by overexposure to the sun. Having blotchy, uneven skin makes us look weathered and worn out.

In the office, light-based techniques are the primary way to treat brown discolorations of the skin. This can be done with the use of a laser or by another device known as Intense Pulsed Light, or IPL. Both are equally effective, I generally use Intense Pulsed Light because that's what I have in my office, and it gives me the results I'm seeking for my patients. The device gives off light energy that destroys the unwanted pigmentation. Within two weeks you will already see improvement in your brown spots. Several treatments are typically required to get the optimal results.

There are topical bleaching or skin-lightening agents, available in creams and gels. The most commonly used agent is hydroquinone.

Finally, protecting yourself from the sun every day with a broad-spectrum sunscreen is absolutely crucial in the treatment of brown spots, and the key to preventing recurrences.

A key point: You have to use a combination approach -- topical therapy with skin-lightening agents and routine SPF.

WRINKLES

Wrinkles are a natural signs of aging, but we all wish we had fewer of them. No matter what time of the year, everyone is looking for ways to make their wrinkles melt away. Genetic predisposition is an important factor in causing wrinkles, as are sun exposure, which causes our collagen and elastic tissue to break down, and, with aging, we produce less collagen over time to replace it.

Smoking, excess alcohol and poor nutrition all accelerate the process of aging.

Not all of us have the finances for expensive procedures such as Botox, fillers or lasers. However, there is a brand new, instant wrinkle eraser, by Clarisonic, called the Opal. It uses a soft-tip applicator and sonic vibration technology to transfer skin-plumping serums into the skin. The serum is a mixture of antioxidants which repair sun-damaged DNA and glycosaminoglycans -- tissue elements that produce skin plumping. It leads to the instant reduction of fine lines and wrinkles. The results last four-to-six hours.

It is only available through a prescribing physician.

What's the best wrinkle cure in a bottle? How often do I hear this?! The truth is that we just don't know. More studies are desperately needed.

One new ingredient on the market that has produced some buzz is snail extract -- who would have thought that snails might offer some help to those seeking the fountain of youth?! Protein secretions from snails contain growth factors that may help to stimulate collagen production and repair sun-damaged tissues, and improve elasticity and texture, especially around the eyes. More studies are needed to validate some of these claimed results.

To treat your fine lines, look for products that include:
alpha-hydroxy acid
matrixyl
copper peptides
growth factors
antioxidants -- products such as green tea, caffeine, Vitamin C and Vitamin E.

ACNE

nsightly acne can make anyone feel down.

People are often surprised to find themselves with acne in adulthood. But, in fact, acne occurs at any age, not just in teens. Acne is a complex condition caused by a variety of factors, such as overproduction of the natural oils in the skin, the shedding of skin cells -- which clogs your pores -- and hormonal irregularities.

There are a lot of quick-fixes dermatologists can do to remedy acne marks. Treatment will depend on what type of acne you have. We use micro-dermabrasion (a fine sanding of the outermost layers of your skin) and chemical peels.

But a newcomer on the block for in-office treatment of acne is a procedure called Photopneumatic Therapy (Isolaz). It may sound like an experiment in a physics lab, but it's actually painless, and studies have shown it's effective. It combines pneumatic energy with broad-band light, similar to the IPL discussed previously. These treatments have an immediate, visible impact on acne 24 - 48 hours after the first treatment.

The primary treatment for acne still involves the use of topical therapies, including things like benzoyl peroxide, and prescription-strength agents like Clindamycin or Erythromycin,and topical derivatives of Vitamin A, such as Retin-A.

We all know there many over-the-counter treatments for acne. And exfoliation should probably be limited to one-to-two times a week.

DARK CIRCLES

Nobody likes the dark raccoon-look! Use sunscreen daily, try a topical product containing Vitamin K and retinol, and wear your sunglasses. Although a tan might hide dark circles in the short term, in the long run, the extra pigment it produces can make circles worse. Combat puffiness by sleeping with your head propped on one-to-two pillows to prevent collection of excess fluid in your eyelids that occurs when lying flat. Avoid rubbing or scrubbing. You won't be able to rub them away, and rubbing only makes it worse.

The true cause of under-eye dark circles is not clearly understood. However, a variety of factors can contribute to them. Natural aging leads to thinning of the skin under the eyes. The loss of collagen and subcutaneous fat make your blood vessels weak, and they leak a dark, bruise-like pigment.

The primary therapy for under-eye dark circles, however, is topical therapy. There are literally hundreds of creams on the shelf that claim to reduce or eliminate under-eye dark circles. The dilemma is that they haven't been studied head-to-head. So, we can't say which is best. Some studies have shown that topical Retinol and topical Vitamin K are effective. In the meantime, it's trial-and-error when treating under-eye dark circles. If you find a topical cream you like, stick with it, and wear your sunscreen.

DRY SKIN

When the skin is dry, skin markings, fine lines and cracks are more apparent, and the skin looks older. Everyone wants to have soft, smooth, hydrated skin, and your dermatologist can help you get it.

Most cases of dry skin are due over-washing and the use of harsh cleansers such as antibacterial soaps and instant hand sanitizers containing alcohol. During winter, there is less moisture in the air, and this predisposes us to dry skin. Hot showers strip your skin's natural protection There are inherited conditions, such as eczema and psoriasis, that predispose patients to dry, flaky and sensitive skin.

The keys are mild cleansers, gentle exfoliation to slough off dead skin cells, and lots of moisturizing. Picking the right cleanser can make a big difference. Choose a gentle non-soap, liquid cleanser.

Bathe less. Moisturize more! Selection of the right moisturizer is also important. Moisturizers containing petrolatum, glycerin, dimethicone are staples, and alpha-hydroxy acid and lactic acid-containing moisturizers help you slough off those white scales.

A recent breakthrough in treatment of dry skin is the discovery of the protective role that ceramides, a specific type of skin lipid or fat, play in skin health and hydration.