5. Mission Taqueria

Mission Taqueria
1516 Sansom Street (2nd floor), Center City

One thing I've learned early in the "Clash of the Tacos" is always ask for the server or counterperson's recommendation. Most taco joints have a minimum of a half-dozen choices on the menu, and I don't have the stomach to try each of them (although I'm working on it).

So when the waitress at the Center City 2nd-floor walkup (above the Oyster House) said, "Try the Mahi – it's spectacular," well, who was I to refuse?

And you know what? She was close to right. I'm not sure about "spectacular," but the Fried Mahi Mahi (three for $15) with jalapeno mayo and pickled cabbage was among the yummiest I've had so far in the food hunt. It starts with a generous chunk of fish, lightly battered and gently cooked. I've already tried too many dried-out fish tacos along the way, so I appreciate the chef's restraint.

We also enjoyed the Beef Short Rib tacos (three for $16), which comes slathered in grilled scallions and jalapeno puree. It's flecked with queso fresco and topped with a wedge of avocado. Nice blend of flavors, good distribution of ingredients. And the beef carried a solid barbecue flavor.

With a side of grilled sweet potatoes and a bottle of Jarrito's grapefruit soda, it made for a fine, albeit pricey, midweek lunch. If we had one gripe, it's that the tortillas could have used a little crisping. But overall, damn good.

Mission Taqueria is crowded, so don't expect quick service. And it's loud – but what restaurant isn't these days? All-in-all, a winner in the "Clash of the Tacos."

Score: 84/100