Loco Pez: The Street Dog, $6

By Glen Macnow

Loco Pez
2401 East Norris, Fishtown

It's an atmospheric corner bar/taqueria in Fishtown with Christmas lights providing the only illumination. You can order any beer from a Kensinger to a Great Lakes Irish Amber. The sign above the bar warns you, "Cash Only, Bitches," and you really don't want to mess with the waitresses.

But we're here for the Street Dog, a conglomeration that includes – and give me a little time to roll this all out – a hotdog wrapped in bacon, with pico sauce, jalapeno, fried beans, shredded cheese, ketchup, mustard and mayo. In other words, don't wear your good shirt – or at least come sporting a bib.

There's a lot of food here for just $6, but I can't say it's anything more than a confusing glop of competing tastes. The bacon is store bought, the hotdog your basic ballpark variety, the bun something you'd find in Acme. Nothing wrong with all that, it's a decent way to wash down a beer or two. But it ain't gonna win this contest.

Score: 52/100