38. Tredici

TREDICI, 114 South 13th Street.

Tredici is a bustling win spot at the corner of Sansom and 13th. Very crowded at lunch, with a creative menu. We were here for the Chicken Meatballs, which come dressed with a ginger-spiked tomato sauce. And, sure, a tall glass of wine.

A plate of five small meatballs arrive piping hot, and you immediately get the wafting aroma of ginger. Strong enough to clear your nose. The sauce has a real snap to it. It's a winner.

The meatballs themselves? Fine enough. Light and tasty and well prepared. But, let's be honest, chicken just doesn't provide the taste and complexity of meat, veal and pork. If you don't eat red meat or want something different from traditional meatballs, this is a fine alternative. But it's the lesser alternative.

Score – 77/100