Russian climber Alexander Gukov rescued from Latok peak, expedition partner fell to his death

Mountain climber rescued after 6 day ordeal

ISLAMABAD -- Pakistan's military says it rescued a Russian climber stranded on a treacherous peak in the north after his fellow mountaineer fell to his death last week. An army statement says a helicopter plucked climber Alexander Gukov from Latok, at a height of 6,294 meters -- about 20,650 feet -- in a "daring rescue" in extreme weather Monday, after six failed attempts.

Gukov was in the elements for six days -- three of them without food.

Karrar Haidri, the secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan, says Gukov's partner in the expedition, Sergey Glazunov, fell to his death July 26 after the two were caught in bad weather on the peak in Biafo glacier, a part of the Karakoram mountain range.

The army says Gukov was taken to a military hospital in the town of Skardu and was reportedly in stable condition.

Alexander Gukov seen huddled inside the rescue helicopter. Reuters

In an interview with the BBC News, Gukov described the harrowing encounter and hallucinations he had at night.

"At night, I had plenty of hallucinations that I was already at home, safe," he said. 

BBC News reports Gukov revealed that during the ordeal, he decided that he would marry his partner of 18 years.

With very limited equipment, Gukov's tracking device only had 2 percent battery, but he managed to send out an alert.

"I sent an SOS message that I needed the evacuation. And they promised me -- OK," he told BBC News. "But the weather ... I've never seen weather like this. [For] seven days, avalanche, avalanche, avalanche."

Gukov said losing his friend was his "main regret."

"What can I say, what can I tell you ... I think there was a fault, Gukov said. "I don't know whose fault, probably his fault or the fault of god," he said.

Latok is know as one of the hardest peaks to climb, according to BBC News. 

A photo showing Alexander Gukov's location near the top of the peak before the rescue. Getty/BBC News
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