On The Road: Traveling Back in Time

(CBS)  Written by 60 Minutes Associate Producer Magalie Laguerre-Wilkinson.

Last May I had the privilege of traveling to Istanbul, Turkey. We were heading there to profile the Ecumenical Patriarch of the Orthodox Church, Bartholomew I. I didn't know very much about him. For one, I always assumed the heart of the Orthodox Church was in Athens, Greece. Finding out it was in Istanbul, Turkey was the beginning of my history lesson.

Photos: The Patriarch
Full Segment: The Patriarch
Web Extra: Cappadocia
Web Extra: Pilgrimage
Web Extra: The Footsteps of Christ

My knowledge of Greco-Turk relations was also very thin and so learning about the fragile position the Orthodox Church finds itself in, in a country that is 99 percent Muslim was also an eye opener. As with all stories done on "60 Minutes" the first step is research; some stories require more than others and this one involved 17 centuries worth of research! I knew that I was going to see Istanbul; Cappadocia in Eastern Turkey, the Sinai in Egypt and our trip would end in Jerusalem. Overall our story was about the Ecumenical Patriarch of the Orthodox Church and the position of Christianity in the part of the world where it all began.

Seeing Istanbul for the first time is like walking into a giant museum; not only is it a beautiful city, but you somehow get a sense that things happened there a very long time ago. Turkey in general is a beautiful country with lovely people and such a rich culture. So I constantly had to remind myself that our story was about a controversial issue in Turkey which had to do with a minority of people - Turks of Greek ancestry - whose presence had gone from a population of nearly 2 million in the early 1920s to only 4,000 today. The story was ultimately about discrimination and the lack of religious freedom on the part of the Turkish government. Our profile of His All Holiness, Ecumenical Patriarch Bartholomew was to be his first on a major American television network and his candor, calm and determination are qualities to be appreciated considering the risk he took in speaking with us.

A slight man in stature, his presence is that of greatness. My first encounter with him is one that I will never forget. I was filming some shots with my camera crew at the Phanar - the Church's headquarters in Istanbul - when someone from His All Holiness's office came to us stating that The Patriarch wanted to meet us right then and there. Because this meeting was not to happen until that evening, I didn't feel I was appropriately dressed to meet him right then and there. We are so focused on people's perceptions of first impressions that I feared his first impression of me wouldn't have been so positive. I felt - and was - underdressed to meet such a person of his stature, but of course I couldn't exactly say 'no, I'd rather go back and change and meet him later.' So here I am feeling both nervous and shy, walking through these lovely corridors and through two doors.

I walk in and up from his desk Patriarch Bartholomew walks towards me, with his hand out to shake mine and as soon as I felt him, I simply begin to weep. Rarely have I felt someone exude so much goodness, and he just held my hand for what seemed to be a good, long while in the most reassuring way. I composed myself and was invited to sit down.

Someone brought in a treat called "Mastica" which was a sweet, white paste on a spoon in a glass of cold water. I watched as the others began licking their spoons, so I followed and as the Patriarch was licking his, I couldn't help but think that here we are, so relaxed and this man is fighting a battle of survival, the survival of his church. It was really quite surreal.

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[texasorthodox]

Do not worry about His All Holiness fight for the survival of the church. The gates of hell will not prevail against this church, which was begun by Jesus and the Apostles....that's what the bible says.

His All Holiness probably means that he feels "persecuted". I can see by the emphasis on the word "crucified" in your news stories, that you news people think this is a point to use in mockery. Shame on you for not trying harder to understand someone of a foreign language.

You should ask the turkish officials and His All Holiness about the young muslim thugs who beat up the old man, and save your mockery.

[anasmart]

Whether Mohammed's letter was forged or not, whether Turkey deserves to be part of the European Union despite blatant abuses against religious freedom, whether "All Holiness" is a correct title for Patriarch Bartholomew or Jesus Christ is besides the point. The point is that God, Allah, etc. represents love and peace and faith. If Muslims (or any others for that matter) cannot accept this and allow others to live their lives according to God's laws, then why even bother to worship at all. Christians have been hypocritical in the past, but there's no excuse for hypocrisy today. Why can't Muslims accept that other people have chosen to follow other faiths?

[TinaG47]

Thank you for such a thoughtful and beautifully written article and for the wonderful 60 Minutes coverage of this issue. Two points that I feel make this such a poignant story - one, the Patriarch and the remnant Greek population are the last faithful descendents of the Byzantine Empire, and two, they are now ruled by their conquerors and those Greeks that abandoned Christianity for the religion of islam.

[aquagem70]

Thank you for your story, I think it was about time the spotlight had been shed on such a blatant disregard of religious freedom by Turkey, a country wanting to join the European Union. I wanted to make a few comments: 1) the Ecumenical Patriarch received the Congressional Gold Medal in 1997; 2) I was hoping that 60 minutes would interview Turkish government officials directly and inquire what their reasoning is to keeping the Halki school closed. 3) No mention was made of the several attempts by the Turkish terrorist group the Grey Wolves to assasinate the Patriarchate 4) President Obama as well as previous presidents bring this issue to the attention of visiting Turkish officials every time they visit, but it falls on deaf ears.
I hope that 60 minutes does a follow up story and this time includes the destruction of religious monuments (such as Aghia Sophia, turned into a mosque and left to fall apart)and the faces of so many saints in the frescos being scratched out. Also, if 60 minutes really wants to see what the Turks are capable of, they should visit the island of Cyprus, the area occupied by the Turkish military. They can visit and see the destruction of over 500 byzantine churches and monastries.
Thank you and keep up the good work!

[nc1029]

Your comment was beautifully stated! It could not have been said any better! Thank you for thoughfully adding in so many necessary and important facts that should be known. All in all this was a great report and a good starting point and it would be wonderful to have a follow up on this story. The Patriarch is such a warm hearted, well educated and peaceful leader who takes joy and pride in the simple moments that life has to offer. It is such a shame and plain disgusting that there are "people" out there who treat others with such blatant disrespect. My only question is what can we do to help reopen the Halki School of Theology? If anyone knows of any organizations that are working to improve the tolerance of the Turks and to give the Greek Orthodoxy what is truly theirs, I would love to take a part in it. Again, thank you for the wonderful story and for many of the wonderful comments.
May the holidays be filled with good health and happiness.

[chillinshane]

I would suggest to all who read and or watch the 60 minutes "patriarch" material you view this with a closed mind to who is actually the "All Holiness". There is only one "All Holiness" in the past, now and in the future. His name is God, the father of creation. God is also Jesus Christ in man form and the Holy spirit in spirit form for our guidence. I can truly say even at my early days of my christianity, I had a real knowledge of who is truly "All Holy". We will only become Perfect ("All Holy")once we've taken our place in Heaven at the feet of Jesus!!!!!!!!! Beware of the times coming ---- If you have not asked Jesus Christ into your life as your Lord and Savior you will be left behind lookin for the "All Holiness".

In Christ I live,
Chillinshane

[emgra]

Dear Chillinhane,
You are correct in saying that only the Lord Jesus Christ is Holy, and the Greeks agree! Remember the New Testament was written in Greek! In fact, the Orthodox Christians have proclaimmed for almost 2000 years, "One is Holy, One is Lord, Jesus Christ, to the Glory of God forever." But whoever has God as their Father, must have the Church (which in Greek the word ekklesia is feminine) as their Mother. For we are lost in the sea to drown without the boat. Here the word for Church in Greek is "Nave", like the Navy, as in boat!

One mistake 60 Minutes made however was calling the Patriarch, the Orthodox Pope. This is absolutely incorrect. To Orthodox Christian, the Patriarch is first among equals, he is a sinner as we all are, for only Christ was without sin, and his ordination like all things on earth, happened by the grace of God for the sheep to have an earthly shepherd. Certainly, Christ is THE Shepherd, but He also selected the Apostles to continue feeding the sheep. See Christ's conversation with St Peter, "Do you love me...than feed my sheep"

Another awe-inspiring fact is that the very First Patriarch of the Christian Church in Constantinople was the Apostle Andrew himself! Each successor can trace his ordination back through the centuries.
However, the history isn't so pretty. In the 19th century, the Turkish authorities martyred Patriarch Gregory of Constantinople, and five metropolitans, by hanging them from the gates of the Phanar on Pascha Sunday. (Easter)

Lastly, please look further into the theology of those Cappadocian ascetics that gave their whole lives to Christ in the caves you saw in Turkey. They truly experienced divine illumination and outlined the great mystery of the Holy Trinity for us to understand today.

Forgive me the sinner.

Here's a place to start:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Church_Fathers#Cappadocian_Fathers

[19951995]

Hi
I was pretty impressed with this report. But,
the letter from Mohamad that was mentioned and viewed most likely was a forge.
reason number 1: Mohamad was venimsouly against christians, he will never write a letter like this. he dies dreaming of having sex with the women of the ROOMS, as romans.
reason no 2: the language and letters in the picture showed "dotted" letters , which came to use in the fourth century after mohamad. the arabic letters used in that time, were the Aramic none dotted letters. later, that changed.
It was natural, and most common, ie, the church of Saint George in Syria, mention the existense of such letter of same meaning. I was not able to see it.
but seems like as toold of self defense, those churches invented this Mohamad's letter thing to use it as protection. as most muslems used to be illetrate.
i welcome any comment on my comment.

[texasorthodox]

the letter is real..there is a mosque inside the walls of orthodox monastery. The Christians offered mohammed hospitality and mohammed offered his protection.