A Ranch Fit for a King (of Texas)

Larger Than Rhode Island, the Legendary King Ranch - and the Family Business It Spawned - Is a Lone Star State Icon

(CBS)  For more than a century-and-a-half, the Lone Star State of Texas has loomed large in the American imagination. And for almost as long, the members of one prominent family and their sprawling ranch lands have loomed large over Texas. This morning the family is letting us inside the gates to take a rare look around, with our Jerry Bowen as guide:

---

If the Old West survives anywhere, it's here, on the sprawling King Ranch in south Texas.

At 825,000 acres, it is bigger than the state of Rhode Island. Everything about it is huge, storied, and mythic.

This is the ranch that launched the legendary cattle drives celebrated in movies like "Red River" . . . the family that inspired the long-running TV soap opera "Dallas" . . . the place where Texas legend and lore were born.

"The two big icons in Texas history, and there are only two. The Alamo. King Ranch. And that's it," said Texas Monthly magazine reporter Sam Gwynne. He's written extensively of the King Ranch, and its bigger-than-life founder, Richard King:

"He was a man who would settle things with his fists," Gwynne said. "If you see pictures of him, he's got a bull neck, enormous shoulders, enormous arms. He was a man who could settle things on his own."

Richard King was a runaway orphan who first made his fortune running American soldiers up the Rio Grande River during the Mexican War. During the Civil War, he put Mexican flags on his river boats to run Confederate cotton past Union naval blockades.

It was his best friend, Robert E. Lee, who told King to keep buying up barren south Texas land:

"'The desert of the dead' was one thing that the Mexicans called it, desert in the sense there was nothing there," Gwynne said.

King brought not only cattle up from Mexico, but an entire village of Mexican cowboys who would become his fiercely loyal kinenos, the king's men: "When he was out riding with his kinenos, with their carbines on horseback, it's a man who's a law unto himself, in a place that he owns and runs - and then not only that, that he carved out of a harsh world."

Today there's a guard house on the main road into the ranch, and down that road, housing for today's kinenos, and a public school to educate the ranch children.

(Left: The Running W brand of the King Ranch in south Texas.)

And then there's the historic King Family compound, strutting peacocks and all. And all part of the legend:

What's also legendary is the family's deeply-held desire for privacy. The main house for example, with its teak floors and tiffany furniture is off-limits to tourists and journalists, reserved instead for family and invited guests.

"CBS Sunday Morning" was allowed to show the King Ranch's images of the understated, comfortable elegance of the main house that replaced the original destroyed by fire in 1912 - a rare look inside permitted, in part, because there are certain things the King Ranch wants you to know . . .

The real story of King Ranch is that of a family business that has found a way to survive, a survival celebrated each fall, when thousands of visitors come for the ranch hands' breakfast. A time for a few to stroll by the grave sites of the racehorses that also made King Ranch famous.

Triple Crown winner Assault is buried here.

James "Jamey" Clement Jr. is a sixth-generation descendant of Capt. King, and now chairman of the board of King Ranch, said he didn't realize the specialness of the place where he grew up until he left:

"Well, having grown up here, it was like not knowing anything different. I went away to school at an early age. And so I started to appreciate that. And everybody always knew of King Ranch at the time.

"I made a mistake when we had our 150th anniversary. Somebody quoted me as saying the ranch [was] never for sale in my lifetime. And one of my cousins called me and said, 'You're mistaken: it's never for sale."

One big reason the ranch has prospered is because of what was discovered beneath the old desert of the dead. Water for one thing. And then, more importantly, oil:

"Well, the King Ranch wasn't just about ranching. It was one of the big oil fields in Texas," said Gwynne. "They eventually drilled 3,700 wells. The oil revenues to Exxon in the '80s, when the price went up, were $600 million, of which the King Ranch got $100 million of that."

And it was Bob Kleberg, Richard King's grandson, a big-living, bigger-than-life character himself who turned the oil deal:

"It's really hard to know where to begin with him," Gwynne said. "He negotiated the largest private oil lease in history. He would hold court sometimes at the main ranchhouse where he would have, you know, potentates from the Middle East, Bing Crosby and Will Rogers. And this was the life."

The story is on display in the nearby company town named - what else - Kingsville, where archivists at the King Ranch Museum carefully preserve reminders of the past . . . how Bob Kleberg - Mr. Bob - made it on the cover of Time Magazine in 1947 . . . how he expanded the enterprise worldwide to 15 million acres, with holdings in Argentina, Australia and Brazil.

. . . and how the family enjoyed the good life. On display is a hunting car specially designed for Kleberg's brother, Richard, a seven-term Congressman, with gun mounts on the sides and a bar in the back seat.

"The best way to hold a family company together is to make money," laughed Jack Hunt, who runs the family business these days. He's an outsider brought in to manage the empire from corporate headquarters in Houston.

"Is the key to survival diversity?" asked Jerry Bowen.

"Yes, I think so.I mean, in the old days, they had cattle and sheep and horses and lots of different things. And then, as we moved into the current era, you know, we've become much more diverse, even beyond that."

The King Ranch Corporation unloaded its foreign holdings and diversified. Now it is the largest citrus grower in Florida . . . one of the largest pecan producers in New Mexico. It grows sugar cane, cotton, and miles of sod for America's lawns.

Back on the original ranch, manager Dave Delaney juggles a huge variety of assets:

"My success as a ranch manager is not only judged by how much money I make, but, more importantly, the shape of the resource ten, 15, 20 years from now, stewarding the land, the water, the cattle the wildlife."

"Were you overwhelmed when you took on this job?" Bowen asked.

"I wouldn't say overwhelmed, but it was kind of like drinking from a firehose!" Delaney laughed.

Corporations rent 20,000 acre parcels of the ranch with year-round lodges to entertain clients. Guided trophy hunting for deer starts at $5,000 per person.

Unless you're a King Ranch employee . . . then it's free.

Leroy Montalvo is a sixth-generation kineno, in the saddle since he was a little boy, trailing his father, uncles and grandfather.

"I was about, maybe, six, I would imagine, five," he said. "And I would be out there with my chaps on top, looking at them run around in the brush, and roping these big old animals. So, ever since then, I always wanted to, you know, follow in their footsteps."

But some things do change. Now there are only 45 working cowboys, compared to 400 in the old days:

The King Ranch is changing in other ways. It's lost its battle to head off a wind farm on an adjacent ranch, a project it fears will threaten migrating water fowl . . . and land values.

But the King Ranch brand, the running W, is strong and on everything . . . from cattle to clothes sold at the ranch store, on saddles, furniture and a special Ford F-150 pickup truck.

While the origin of the running W brand is debated, what is sure is that it is a family symbol of endurance that started with Captain King.

Jamey Clement explained Bowen the cannons out front: "We were still having raiders' parties from Mexico coming in, as late as the early teens. We were always confronted with external forces."

These cannons were actually used to fend off cattle rustlers, and are proof of the ranch's toughness.

"Do you have concerns about the survivability of King Ranch?" Bowen asked.

"No," Clement said. "We'll power through this just like we have before."

Power through it, like Richard King . . . the King of Texas . . . did 155 years ago.

"I don't know why he isn't kind of a household name in America," Gwynne said. "I don't know why all American children don't know the name Richard King the way they know Davy Crockett. I don't know why. They should. He's that big."

Really big. Especially deep in the heart of Texas


For more info:
king-ranch.com
King Ranch Saddle Shop
King Ranch Museum
Texas Monthly

[behindthefence]

For what it is worth, the article failed to mentioned that Captain King was not Texas bred. He was a Yankee - a Brooklyn boy. The show segment should have made that clear. Texans, my good neighbors and friends, sometimes tend to suffer from an overblown ego and have to be put in their place.

[ll2owt]

i tell you again...the only good thing ever to come out of texas was an empty bus...

[elJohnny66]

This is sickening. As early as 1915 the King Ranch and its infamous "rinches" were up to their old tricks and butchering Mexican-American ranchers and farmers to expand their empire. I teach at a college in South Texas and many of my students are the decedents of men and women who were murdered and raped so that the King dynasty could prosper. The King ranch has done little to benefit anyone other than their immediate family and interests in Texas. They have had a death grip on Texas politics for decades and to portray this family as some type of folk heroes who forged an empire out of a wilderness is insulting to anyone with half a brain. The King ranch should be accurately portrayed as murderous rapist who are driven by greed. And if that has changed recently, then they need to do the honorable thing and admit to their past misdeeds and try to reconcile some of the evil they have spread so the deep scars they have left on the region can begin to heal.

[JDAD2]

P




RETTY GOOD STORY.
COMMENTS ...NOT SO MUCH

[mathewcs-2009]

God forbid they do a piece on a long running family business, yes, that makes money for welathy people. Perhaps the story would have been better had they gone bankrupt and had to take a hand-out from the government to survive. Shame on them for making money. Perhaps I am picking up on a bit of jealousy. I am not rich, or come from a wealthy family. I am not going to fault anyone else for that. Quit whining and worry about you. In the words of Ray Wylie Hubbard, "screw you, i'm from Texas"

[sonofsummarex]

Gee
I thought this was going to be the story of how a small group of SOBs are sitting on a land mass the size of rhode Island while ordinary Americans are increasiungly living the life of sardines. How silly of me to think that a major media outlet might actually place a priority on defending the interests of the people. You people are as destructive as Al-Qaeda. I hope the time comes when we will stop differentiating between you and them.

[ayacard]

My family was originally granted that land well before any Anglos had right to it. As of 10 years ago, we had keys to the property to visit our great-great-relatives' grave sites. Shame on CBS for not researching the FULL story about this land and how it was literally stolen away.

[sonofsummarex]

It's contingent upon you to take it back, by force of arms if necessary.

[Hill_Country_Bill]

No mention was ever made of Henrietta King --- she was as big a part of the King Ranch as anyone. Very incomplete reporting ......

[Hill_Country_Bill]

No mention was ever made of Henrietta King --- she was as big a part of the King Ranch as anyone. Very incomplete reporting ......

[laineygafford]

These comments make me laugh! Maybe its because I was raised in Kingsville, Texas and that was a way of life for us and it didn't seem "inhumane", it is how we had dinner sometimes.

My first intention was to write CBS to ask them before you report a story, do your homework a little better, the county of Kleberg is not pronounced Kleeberg, it is prounouned (or sounds like "Clay-burg"). It would have sounded better when you reported your story if it was said correctly.

[bubbadubba]

OK so they did a story on one of the people who control the US and controlled Bush.
I would call him the King puppet master.
Yawn.

[dcline5]

I was a cowboy in Idaho in the 1950s, and my grandfather before me starting in the late 1800s. We knew about the King ranch. Back then each of their cowboys had 20 horses. We were lucky to have one. Our ranch was 80 miles wide and 120 miles long, north to south, with 80,000 head of cattle at its peak. But I never knew the King ranch was such a huge enterprise. But going from 400 cowboys to 45?? Something basic has been lost.

[a_alegria10]

Well this is a very interesting array of opinions. Though I must say, anyone with the nerve to criticize a way of life you know nothing about...well, that is the epitome of an IGNORANT American. You are basing your opinion on a short article that is meant to portray 155 years of history. Now, I personally am not one to send comments into the cyber world, but, my father was featured in this article which brodcasted nationwide. So in our defense, to your comments I say:


First of all, I know some people do not agree with hunting and that is understandable, but, understand that before grocery stores, HOW DO YOU THINK PEOPLE GOT THEIR FOOD? It was either grown or killed by hand. Granted, there were no fences, but it was still done as method of survival. If you choose to not eat meat and you honestly do not believe in killing animals, well that is you personal opinion and I am not one to try to impose my beliefs on another (and neither should you). Oh, by the way, "shooting fish in a barrel" really???? First of all, the ranch is 825,000 acres!!!! (if you aren't aware of the size of an acre...GOOGLE IT!), and there are little or no high fences, so the animals can actually move from ranch to ranch as they please. So, I hate to be the one to break the news but you should reconsider you anolgy.
For the more important part of my statement, the King Ranch is not just a piece of history, it is a way of life. If you think the ranch has not impacted your life directly your right, because it is more of an indirect approach. The ranch is one of the largest cattle producers in the nation, so ask yourself DO I EAT BEEF?? The ranch is also a producer of citrus and sod, so again ask yourself DO I EAT ORANGES? DO I HAVE A YARD? I really do not mean to be rude. As for life in itself, well, that is something that is difficult to understand because it is exceptionally rare. You wouldnt understand unless you were one of the few families across the nation that instill discipline, respect, hardwork, and manners in their children.
Finally, it is great to see so many people taking the time to voice their opinions on this article. We are all apart of this great nation and each one of you has a life that is unique due to the part of the country you reside in. I would never criticize another persons way of life just because it is different than my own...but then again that's how I was raised. Just know that this way of life exists, it's not everyday that you hear about real life cowboys. But anyway..."Y'all have a great day :) "

[skeezix06]

Do I eat beef? Not yours. That's a fact. Do I eat oranges? Seldom. Bananas are cheaper. Do you have any connection to my yard? You have as much connection to my yard as I have to yours; which is to say "none". Am I aware of how large an acre is? Don't be silly. I'm from Kansas.

You live a wealthy lifestyle. Good for you. You apparently have teak floors and tiffany furniture. Again, good for you. Enjoy them. Live long and prosper.

Strange as it may sound, I come from a family that was taught to be direct. A wealthy lifestyle is a completely foreign concept that is totally out of reach for a lot of people in this country. So why, when people are suffering so much economic hardship, did you decide to publicize your previously mostly private (I'm not from Texas so I had never heard of you before today) lifestyle on national tv? I"m not envious of what you have. I just see no good reason, no good purpose and before you tell me how disrespectful you think I am, the hint that most of us don't instill discipline, respect when and where it is earned, hard work, and manners; is that and wealth was unnecessary and something less than kind. Back at ya.

[skeezix06]

Corrected version.

Do I eat beef? Not yours. That's a fact. Do I eat oranges? Seldom. Bananas are cheaper. Do you have any connection to my yard? You have as much connection to my yard as I have to yours; which is to say "none". Am I aware of how large an acre is? Don't be silly. I'm from Kansas and the people up the road trained cutting horses back when I was a teen.

You live a wealthy lifestyle. Good for you. You apparently have teak floors and tiffany furniture. Again, good for you. Enjoy them. Live long and prosper.

Strange as it may sound to someone in your position, I come from a family that was taught to be direct. A wealthy lifestyle is a completely foreign concept that is totally out of reach for a lot of people in this country. So why, when people are suffering so much economic hardship, did you decide to publicize your previously mostly private (I'm not from Texas so I had never heard of you before today) lifestyle on national tv? I"m not envious of what you have. I just see no good reason, no good purpose and before you tell me how disrespectful you think I am, the hint that most of us don't instill discipline, respect when and where it is earned, hard work, and manners in our children was unnecessary and disrespectful so back at ya.

Agreed. This was great history, a wonderful vignette of Texas, it was not attempting to be relevant to everyone in the world- it was a story of Texas past and present.
Also, regarding the hunting, surely those who disagree with it must realize that deer are a population out of control, which promotes disease and starvation. The hunting is an absolute necessity (although I don't do it myself) to maintain the health of the animal population. All of you should congratulate a_alegria10 for continuing a rich heritage and letting history come to life. Relax and enjoy a story for once.

[skeezix06]

Condescending: "Did some of you even read the article with full comprehension from begining to end?" (the typo is yours, I merely cut and pasted)

And while I saw in other posts that theft was a possibility in the King ranch (I looked it up, did you?), that doesn't make everyone who crossed the ocean a thief .

[IrishWench01]

Give it up. Your own words betray your envy and bitterness.

[skeezix06]

You just became ridiculous, IrishWench.

[IrishWench01]

LOL! Me ridiculous? Try reading your own words and the energy you have expended fussing over this article and the people who received enjoyment from reading it. You rail without even actually reading the comments you argue with. You take things that were not even addressed to you, personally. You respond out of context with indignation. And I'm ridiculous? Whatever gets you through the days and nights.

Oh, and by the way. If you had bothered to actually read and comprehend my earlier post, you would understand my reference to thieves and in exactly what context I was making the statement. Your question above indicates a complete lack of understanding. You have avoided direct questions and instead took on a martyr role. So I might say that makes you both ridiculous and clueless.

[skeezix06]

Is this the attitude the wealthy have toward average people, Irish? Attempts at condescension, ridicule, telling them what to think?

If I was envious of the wealth, I would have said it without dancing around. Teak floors and tiffany furniture, while beautiful, would make me feel trapped and uncomfortable. I'm neither envious or bitter.

Oh, and by the way I was being somewhat polite, but my "inadequate" public education and low IQ tells me that "descendant" is the correct spelling, not "descendent". Ain't no genuflecting goin' on 'round here. And if your meter is detecting some irony at this point, you're right.

[IrishWench01]

Is that the cornerstone of your ire? The misconception that I'm wealthy and a typo? Had it not been for that reason, perhaps you would have actually answeed or legitimately addressed what I had to say. But no matter. You do get funnier by the moment. Seriously though, its time for me to move on to new horizons. I'm sure you have plenty to keep you busy as well. Perhaps you would be best served by not jumping to conclusions and responding negatively to people who aren't initially even addressing you. Or perhaps not, some people enjoy creating conflict in their space. Whatever the case, you have a good life. Peace

[fleabag75]

There can be no similarity between yesteryear and today. The King ranch survives today simply because money begets money. They are fortunate that they selected intelligent people to continue the wealth over the generations. Many don't. It is the same with the Trumps, Buffets and the Gates'. With a ton of money and intelligent selection, the prosperity can continue. So it is written, so it is done.

[IrishWench01]

Interesting article.

It amuses me how people will show disgust or disdain for families such as these. Comments of stealing land, "canned hunts" (where did that come from? Mighty big can they're talking about).Did some of you even read the article with full comprehension from begining to end?

Every descendent from the settlers is a part of that action. You all reap the benefits of the "theft". If you aren't a native of this continent than you share the bounty and the guilt. In addition, do your best to end the laws that keep Mexicans out of the U.S. and end the pursuit of so called illegals. After all, they are just coming home.

For those who can't see the positive aspects this family contributed to the area, it is due to your inability to read, comprehend or just an excuse to jump on a band wagon with no wheels.

[skeezix06]

You are mistaken. You are also extremely condescending in your comments and tone. We're not stupid. We just don't agree with you and tend to believe our points of view are at least as valid as yours.

My ancestors were here in 1640 so Alden and company weren't that much earlier than mine. Last I looked, I haven't reaped any benefits from the King Ranch nor do I expect to.

When I said there is no common ground, no connection, I meant exactly that. No more, no less.

[IrishWench01]

What exactly am I mistaken about? I didn't say you or anyone not directly or indirectly conneted to the ranch reap the benefits. I said the ancesters of those who came here from other lands and took what they wanted, reap the benefits of those actions. Unless of course you no longer live in this country.

In addition, I was not replying to your comment. I was typing and did not even see you comment until I had already submitted mine, so who is the we you continue to refer to? My comment was not directed to any specific post, with the exception of my reference to the "canned hunt".

Condescension? No. I never accused anyone of being stupid. But tell me, what was your point in commenting? Because it was of no interest to you, is hardly indicative that it would not be to others. Someone with little or no interest would have to have some motive for taking the time to watch, read or post. There are many on this planet who do not share your reality, or mine for that matter. That doesn't make them any less entitled, valuable or interesting to others. They are about as far away from my reality as well, but that doesn't lessen my interest in their accomplishments and their story. I enjoy stepping out of my box because my situation is where I am at this point in time, not who I am.

[skeezix06]

How nice. And this story means what to me? Pretty much nothing. These people are just about as far away from my reality as you can get.

[mrleme]

I would think the movie 'Giant' with Rock Hudson and Elizabeth Taylor was fashioned after King Ranch history.

As for offense, well, to me it's a fluff story and people conquer people, it happened then and it will happen to us too. There has never been a time in the history of the world without war, you just have to choose which one you want to be in or the one that comes knocking.

[LOLSEN55]

DITTO..DITTO...DITTO....to tgpnorth and eeyorelvr.
I was terribly disturbed as I realized CBS Sunday Morning was going to actually show a beautiful deer which had been shot and killed as a trophy....are you kidding me????????? SHAME ON CBS SUNDAY MORNING!!!!!!! AND SHAME ON THE KING RANCH FOR PROMOTING SUCH A DISGUSTING IDEA.

[mrleme]

I guess you didn't like the movie "Dances with Wolves," if you don't like it turn the channel, I do.

And the Mexicans prior to that time stole the land from the Native Americans and killed them, too. This was a different age than now. It was a terrific article about a larger than life piece of Texas history, this was not an apology tour by a family that provides a good home and work for their employees.
If you want to spend time complaining about corruption and theft, better spent complaining about the current drug use in America and the the drug lord murders that are supported by its use.

[sonofsummarex]

Excuse me

Most oifd those Mexicxans are part native.

[ccrouse]

No they were ot, I'm sure the people from Markham, Texas that won in the settlement against the King ranch would argue that!