Buenos Aires On A Budget

Eat, Drink And Tango The Night Away In Argentina's Capital City

(AP)  Divide the weekend by neighborhood - Saturday, Palermo, and Sunday, San Telmo - to be sure catch each barrio at its best.

Head to Plaza Cortazar - or Plaza Serrano as it's popularly called - to delve into the almost comical frenzy of consumerism that make portenos some of the most stylishly attired people in Latin America. Eager to capitalize on the neighborhood's notorious trendiness, real estate agents have aptly dubbed the area Palermo SoHo.

Hit up the ring of bars and restaurants encircling Plaza Serrano. They temporarily stop serving on Saturday and Sunday from 2 p.m.-8 p.m., opening their doors to dozens of young designers who transform the bars into impromptu stores, selling shirts, purses and accessories on the cheap. Outside, scores of artisans sell handicrafts.

After shopping around Plaza Serrano, relax with a glass of wine for about 10 pesos (U.S. $3) and gloat over bargain buys while deciding where to go for dinner.

Great eats in the area include Social Paraiso (Honduras 5182) and the popular La Cabrera parrilla (Cabrera 5099), where diners can split a gluttonous 2-pound steak for less than 54 pesos (U.S. $20). With each bite you begin to understand the buzz about Argentine beef.

Confer with the online restaurant guide, a helpful local version of Zagat's.

If an after-dinner coffee puts a kick in your step, head out for a cocktail for about 15 pesos (U.S. $5) in preparation for the next leg of the never-ending Buenos Aires night: dancing. There's no need to rush: Most portenos wouldn't be caught dead at a club before 2 a.m. Popular clubs in the Palermo area include Niceto Club and Pacha, where entrance is less than 50 Argentine pesos (U.S. $15).

Take a taxi. Even crossing the city, it will rarely cost more than 30 pesos (U.S. $10). Radio Taxi is the safest option.

Ease your transition back into daylight Sunday morning with the typical Buenos Aires breakfast: a cafe con leche, fresh-squeezed orange juice and three croissants, or medialunas, for less than 15 pesos (U.S. $4).

Pick up Spanish-daily Pagina12 and flip to the supplement Radar, which has one of the best weekly cultural calendars.

Other great cafes are La Biela (Av. Quintana 600) - under an enchantingly expansive tree and right across from the must-see Recoleta Cemetery where Eva "Evita" Peron is buried; the classic Cafe Tortoni (Av. De Mayo 825/29); Bar Britanico (corner of Brasil and Defensa) and Las Violetas (Av. Rivadavia 3899).

The neighborhood of San Telmo is a microcosm of porteno charm, with its elegantly decrepit 19th-century buildings, cobblestone streets and a quirky mix of expatriates and Argentines who all frequent the same butcher shop in the 1897 San Telmo indoor market.

The neighborhood hosts a not-to-be-missed festive street fair every Sunday, running for 10 blocks along Defensa Street.

Meander all morning without spending a cent, listening to live tango orchestras, laughing at street performers and people-watching. One of the better parrillas in the city, Desnivel (Defensa 855), is on the route, where you can get a juicy steak and a good bottle of Malbec red wine for less than 65 pesos (U.S. $20). Or try La Brigada parrilla around the corner (Estados Unidos 465).

Grab a slice of cheese-filed pizza, called fugazza con queso for about 3 Argentine pesos (U.S. $1), at Pirilo's (Defensa 841), a tiny joint with standing room only. Accompany it with the traditional cup of moscato, an Italian sweet wine.

The most local charm for your pesos is on the bar stools at Carlos Calvo 471, where you can buy a choripan for about 3 pesos (U.S.$ 1) - chorizo sausage on baguette bread, an Argentine favorite. Pile on the chimichurri sauce and be mesmerized watching the owner tend a grill full of meat.

Stick around for the free outdoor milonga from 7:30 p.m. to midnight on Plaza Dorrego, held every Sunday, weather permitting.

Another Sunday option is the Feria de Mataderos, a gaucho arts and crafts fair with folk dancing and traditional food from Argentina's north - about half an hour from the city center. The free fair is held Sundays from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. unless it rains, and is well worth the short trip.

A nighttime diversion is walking along Buenos Aires' luminous theater strip, Corrientes Avenue. Catch a show or movie (English-language films are subtitled rather than dubbed) and then eat some Argentine pizza - a delicious missing link between thin crust and deep dish. Sweeten the night with a dulce de leche ice cream.

You'll have to sleep some time, and boutique hotels are surprisingly affordable in Buenos Aires, with double rooms for around 500 Argentine pesos (U.S.$150). Check out: Hotel Home; Hotel Bobo and Malabia House.