Desperate Haitians Survive On Mud Cookies
Slum Residents Suffering As Oil Prices, Biofuel Demand, Weather Drive Food Costs Up
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The hand of a woman is covered in mud as she makes mud cookies on the roof of Fort Dimanche, once a prison, in Port-au-Prince, Friday, Nov. 30, 2007. (AP Photo/Ariana Cubillos)
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Yolen Jeunky, 45, collects dried mud cookies to sell in Cite Soleil in Port-au-Prince,Thursday, Nov. 29, 2007. Rising prices and food shortages threaten the nation's fragile stability, and the mud cookies, made of dirt, salt and vegetable shortening, are one of very few options the poorest people have to stave off hunger. (AP Photo/Ariana Cubillos)
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A market vendor sells mud cookies at the La Saline market in Port-au-Prince, Friday, Jan. 25, 2008. (AP Photo/Ariana Cubillos)
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Chante, 19, holds her baby as she makes mud cookies on the the roof of Fort Dimanche, once a prison, in Port-au-Prince, Thursday Nov. 29 , 2007. (AP Photo/Ariana Cubillos)
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Cajeunes, 11, shows his tongue after eating a mud cookie in Cite Soleil, Friday, Jan. 18, 2008. (AP Photo/Ariana Cubillos)
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With food prices rising, Haiti's poorest can't afford even a daily plate of rice, and some take desperate measures to fill their bellies.
Charlene, 16 with a 1-month-old son, has come to rely on a traditional Haitian remedy for hunger pangs: cookies made of dried yellow dirt from the country's central plateau.
The mud has long been prized by pregnant women and children here as an antacid and source of calcium. But in places like Cite Soleil, the oceanside slum where Charlene shares a two-room house with her baby, five siblings and two unemployed parents, cookies made of dirt, salt and vegetable shortening have become a regular meal.
"When my mother does not cook anything, I have to eat them three times a day," Charlene said. Her baby, named Woodson, lay still across her lap, looking even thinner than the slim 6 pounds 3 ounces he weighed at birth.
Though she likes their buttery, salty taste, Charlene said the cookies also give her stomach pains. "When I nurse, the baby sometimes seems colicky too," she said.
Food prices around the world have spiked because of higher oil prices, needed for fertilizer, irrigation and transportation. Prices for basic ingredients such as corn and wheat are also up sharply, and the increasing global demand for biofuels is pressuring food markets as well.
The problem is particularly dire in the Caribbean, where island nations depend on imports and food prices are up 40 percent in places.
The global price hikes, together with floods and crop damage from the 2007 hurricane season, prompted the U.N. Food and Agriculture Agency to declare states of emergency in Haiti and several other Caribbean countries. Caribbean leaders held an emergency summit in December to discuss cutting food taxes and creating large regional farms to reduce dependence on imports.
At the market in the La Salines slum, two cups of rice now sell for 60 U.S. cents, up 10 U.S. cents from December and 50 percent from a year ago. Beans, condensed milk and fruit have gone up at a similar rate, and even the price of the edible clay has risen over the past year by almost $1.50. Dirt to make 100 cookies now costs $5, the cookie makers say.
I'm hoping one day I'll have enough food to eat, so I can stop eating these. I know it's not good for me.
Marie Noel, 40, Mother of 7Merchants truck the dirt from the central town of Hinche to the La Saline market, a maze of tables of vegetables and meat swarming with flies. Women buy the dirt, then process it into mud cookies in places such as Fort Dimanche, a nearby shanty town.
Carrying buckets of dirt and water up ladders to the roof of the former prison for which the slum is named, they strain out rocks and clumps on a sheet, and stir in shortening and salt. Then they pat the mixture into mud cookies and leave them to dry under the scorching sun.
The finished cookies are carried in buckets to markets or sold on the streets.

Assessments of the health effects are mixed. Dirt can contain deadly parasites or toxins, but can also strengthen the immunity of fetuses in the womb to certain diseases, said Gerald N. Callahan, an immunology professor at Colorado State University who has studied geophagy, the scientific name for dirt-eating.
Haitian doctors say depending on the cookies for sustenance risks malnutrition.
"Trust me, if I see someone eating those cookies, I will discourage it," said Dr. Gabriel Thimothee, executive director of Haiti's health ministry.
Marie Noel, 40, sells the cookies in a market to provide for her seven children. Her family also eats them.
"I'm hoping one day I'll have enough food to eat, so I can stop eating these," she said. "I know it's not good for me."
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Best-selling author Mitch Albom on his first nonfiction work since "Tuesdays with Morrie."





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See all 45 CommentsWhen you talk about the Hatians being beautiful people are you talking about the transplanted Africans brought to Haiti or about the original people of Haiti?
Posted by rushlimpdrug at 10:28 AM : Jan 30, 2008
The Africans in Haiti were brought there more than 400 years ago--they can claim after all this time, to be more indigenous to Haiti, than most Americans can to North America--and since most have ancestry n Haiti that trumps most Americans--what is your point? That is still the history of the country and the fact of oppression by their government and the former Imperialist powers that ruled or aided and abetted dictator rule over them still hold true.
Be careful how you judge others--God is not through with America yet and we seemed to be trending toward a polarized, Brazil type, 3rd world --playground for rich foreigner existence, ourselves.
Posted by Prinzowhales
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You really think so? So, if I proposed that you eat nothing but mud cookies for one year, while I have access to all of the groceries in Wal-Mart for one year... you honestly believe that after that time, you''d be in better shape than me?
If you consider negative clothes sizes and severe malnutrition a "better shape" then maybe. Wonder how many of those people starving to death in Haiti would turn their noses up at corn syrup and processed food in preference of mud if cost weren''t an issue...? Probably NOBODY!
He''s going to discourage it? How...? "I''d rather you eat NOTHING than those cookies!" What a jerk. If he can''t offer a solution, or a healthier alternative, he needs to shut up.
Then we all could eat dirt and breed like so many weeds.
Guess what?
If I knew my children would be eating mud cookies I wouldn''t have any kids.
Now go forth and multiply. . .
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See all 45 Comments