Top Designer Pushes For Not-So-Thin Models
Daughter's Battle With Bulimia Spurs Bradley Bayou To Seek Change In His Industry
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Designer Bradley Bayou with Tracy Smith (CBS/The Early Show)
As national correspondent Tracy Smith reported on The Early Show, Bayou was designing outfits for women of all sizes -- he was once called "the man for all sizes" -- when his daughter was overcome by the binging and purging of the eating disorder known as bulimia. It began when she was seeking to fit into some of his clothes.
Marilyn Monroe, Smith reflected, was a 1950s sex symbol — and a size 12, close to average.
But now, the standard of beauty in the fashion industry has shrunk to a size zero, as designers demand thinner and thinner models.
Bayou, a Beverly Hills designer for the stars, is bucking that, telling Smith, "Fashion and beauty are not just about the skinny girls."
Bayou rose to the top by mastering the art of concealing a woman's flaws and revealing her beauty.
But even the man for all sizes knew that skinny sells. Thin was in.
Bayou's oldest daughter, Alexis Bayoud, noticed.
"I never fit into any of his sample sizes," she says. "As a teenager and as a young adult, I thought I should be able to fit into his certain size (the tiny sample sizes) … because I was his daughter. And I just — didn't."
Bayou observes that the message the fashion industry "is sending to everybody is, 'If you're not thin, you're not going to be happy.' "
"I wanted to be thin," Alexis recalled. "I wanted to fit in. You know — I wanted to be beautiful. … I've always been so proud of him, and I always ... I always kind of wanted to fit into his world."
When Alexis started college, she started taking diet pills — binging and purging.
To Bayou, she looked great: "All of a sudden, like, she was like she could wear my clothes. She was like model thin."
"I was like, 'You know I'm working out,' " Alexis says. "I'm eating right. And really — no — that was a lie."
The truth came out when Alexis had a breakdown, and had to tell her father she was bulimic.
"She was literally collapsed on the floor, and was hysterical, like, out of control, and saying things like, 'I want to die,' " Bayou remembers.
"It was that serious," Alexis says. "And I think, if it had kept progressing, it would have been really bad."
Alexis, Smith points out, is like millions of other women striving for the unattainable image of beauty created by skinny models.
"Potentially, tens of thousands of girls may develop an eating disorder because of the fact that they're trying to live up to this," observes Sean Patterson, president of the famous Wilhelmina Models in New York, the setting of the reality show called "The Agency."
Patterson says the show's scenes of models being pressured to be thin are "pretty real. … If we don't find the models that fit into the clothes … we go out of business. We can't exist. … And the talent that a designer's looking for is going to be a size zero or a size two, at the most."
Like Bayou, Patterson says he misses the models of the early '90s. Those size sixes and eights looked healthy.
"As a reaction to the supermodel era," says Patterson, "there was a certain group of stylists and designers who said, 'You know what? It's not about these girls anymore. We want to make it about us and the clothes.' "
Bayou and Patterson assert that recommendations the Council of Fashion Designers of America (www.cfda.com) issued this year, calling for healthy snacks and for designers to look for signs of eating disorders in their models, won't fix the problem.
Says Patterson, "I don't believe, necessarily, that having a guideline that says, 'Have healthy snacks' backstage at the show is gonna change the fact that the girls have to get on to that runway and squeeze into size zero dresses."
Adds Bayou, "I think we have to do more, because it's not gonna change with those guidelines."
Bayou has written "The Science of Sexy" and now he's telling aspiring designers it's up to them to take the initiative and use larger models.
"Just because a small, elite group has told us that thin — skinny, forget thin — emaciated is in doesn't mean it's in," he declares
Alexis, says Bayou, "is one of many, many, many people out there — millions — who have this problem … where they don't feel like they fit in … and that can be changed."
Can skinny models be made passé, Smith asked.
"I think they're gonna go out," Bayou responded. " … More than half the women in this country have got to speak out, you know, 'We're not hideous.' "
Alexis fought for six years before asking for help, and she's doing great now, Smith adds.
Bayou, a member of the CFDA, has a fashion show later this year in London, and his samples will be in sizes four through 10.
He says he'd like to see models pass a physical to prove that they're eating properly. That's what they started doing in Italy, but doctors in the United States say eating disorders are so complex, with so many physical and mental elements, there's no simple, reliable way to diagnose them, at least for now.
Bayou also points out that, if the average woman is around a size 12, there's a huge market out there that is underserved, with lots of money to be made designing clothes in larger sizes.
For more information on the issue of eating disorders, visit NationalEatingDisorders.org and www.bradleybayou.com.
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- I'm glad that it looks like they've stopped bashing men over this issue. Women are starting to admit that with this body image thing they're just doing it to each other. Most guys are just glad if we get to come to the party.
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- This designer certainly has a lot of support. I hope he reads these comments as well. I no longer get angry about the skinny thing...I unfortunately have Graves Disease and 'bloomed nicely'. The simple task of finding decent career wear is a task...whatever happened to the tunic style blouse? Fifty year old grandma doesn't need her belly hanging out...blouses and pants are too short, and who puts horizontal stipes on a 2X?! Geez, who makes this stuff? I haven't shopped in monthes because styles fall short. I don't want to dress like a 200lb baby!
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- We women are to blame for this. Designers only sell what we buy. If we quit buying, they'll change what they sell.
And what amazes me, is that women listen to a bunch of men telling them what to wear. Helloooo!!! Step away from the TV, step away from the fashion mag, and go develop yourself some STYLE of your own, ladies. The most *** thing there is, is confidence. And that comes in all sizes. - Reply to this comment
- Sizes are not consistent from designer to designer, store to store and have changed from previous years. What is a certain size now does not match the same size from ten years ago. The system of size versus inches in women's clothing, as opposed to men's clothing, is archaic and it's time we were all measured in inches. (Don't get me started on how easy the metric system is to use).
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- I think it's about time....... I just don't understand the clothing that they are promoting these days! I'm not old fashioned, and I'm sure most aren't, but they are really out of touch with "reality"!
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- "...today it's an emaciated figure that resembles that of a 12 yr. old boy..." Posted by apdepetris at 02:11 PM : May 15, 2007
Exactly! I've always thought it a bit pervie to want to decorate woman to look like little girls, or boys, & treat them as the "ideal" of s-xy.
Mentally healthy men & women are not attracted to children. - Reply to this comment
- Thank you, Mr. Bayoud. And thank you, Alexis!
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- I found it interesting what he said about Marilyn Monroe being a 12. I was watching an "I Love Lucy" rerun not long ago. Various girls were trying out for one of Ricky's shows and he was verifying that they were all a size 12 because that was the size of the costume that they were going to wear. And these women were all being portrayed as beautiful and voluptuous in their low cut, midriff baring tops and short shorts. It was interesting how times have changed. In the 50's curvy women (large chests and hips) like Marilyn were what was considered attractive where today it's an emaciated figure that resembles that of a 12 yr. old boy. You certainly wouldn't call any of today's models voluptuous.
To me it woud make sense to design clothes and have models of various sizes from 4-14. That way a consumer would look at the clothes and be able to picutre the outfit on themselves. As it is if you're not a size 0/2 how are you possibly going to picture yourself in the outfit. A consumer might say "hey, that's a nice outfit but it's not going to look good on me because I'm a 6/8 and not thin like the model." - Reply to this comment
- i have been that size "0" and now i am a 14. Not only is my body curvier and s3xier... but i get much more attention that is flattering. i felt like a skeleton at size "0" but now i bellydance and look like a woman.. not a stick figure!!!
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- If you look around, I don't think you see a lot of women sizes 0 or 2. Real women in the world that work, cook, clean and have children are usually sizes 5 to 14, if this designers cannot design clothes that look good in a woman size 14, then they should not design, because what they are doing is not real.
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