June 10, 2007

Sea Gypsies Saw Signs In The Waves

How Moken People In Asia Saved Themselves From Deadly Tsunami

  • Play CBS Video Video How Gypsies Escaped Tsunami

    The Moken people's lifestyle on the Southeast Asian seas helped them know what receding seas meant and saved them from the deadly tsunami. 60 Minutes' Bob Simon has their story.

    • Bob Simon reports on how the Moken miraculously survived the tsunami because they said they knew it was coming.

      Bob Simon reports on how the Moken miraculously survived the tsunami because they said they knew it was coming.  (CBS)

    • The Moken are the sea gypsies of the Andaman Sea, and they've lived for hundreds of years on the islands off the coast of Thailand and Burma.

      The Moken are the sea gypsies of the Andaman Sea, and they've lived for hundreds of years on the islands off the coast of Thailand and Burma.  (CBS)

    • Saleh Kalathalay, a skilled spear-fisherman, ran around warning everyone about the tsunami.

      Saleh Kalathalay, a skilled spear-fisherman, ran around warning everyone about the tsunami.  (CBS)

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  • Interactive Tsunami Tragedy

    A look back at one of the worst disasters in memory with facts, maps, photos and more.

  • Interactive The World's Disaster

    Foreign tsunami victims by nation, the relief effort and remembrances.

(CBS)  This segment originally aired March 20, 2005. It was updated on June 8, 2007.

The tsunami may have lasted only a couple of hours, but it will not go away. New casualties are still being discovered: Thais, Swedes, Sri Lankans, and Indonesians. The death toll has topped 175,000. And there’s more than 125,000 still missing and presumed dead.

But there’s one group who live precisely where the tsunami hit hardest who suffered no casualties at all. They are the sea gypsies of the Andaman Sea, or as they call themselves, the Moken.

They’ve lived for hundreds of years on the islands off the coast of Thailand and Burma. They are, of all the peoples of the world, among the least touched by modern civilization.

And, as correspondent Bob Simon reports, they miraculously survived the tsunami because they knew it was coming.



It's their intimacy with the sea that saved the Moken. They’re born on the sea, live on the sea, die on the sea. They know its moods and motions better than any marine biologist. They’re nomads, constantly moving from island to island, living more than six months a year on their boats.

At low tide, they collect sea cucumbers, and catch eels. At high tide, they dive for shellfish. They've been living this way for so many generations that they've become virtually amphibious.

Kids learn to swim before they can walk. Underwater, they can see twice as clearly as the rest of us, and by lowering their heart rate, can stay underwater twice as long. They are truly sea urchins.

60 Minutes discovered a Moken village on an island two hours by speedboat from the coast of Thailand. It had become something of an exotic tourist Mecca before the tsunami.

A Bangkok movie star and amateur photographer named Aun was here on Dec. 26, 2004, taking pictures of Moken village life, when someone noticed the sea receding into the distance.

Aun's pictures showed the Moken on the beach crying. Did she have any idea why they were crying? "I feel like they know what bad will happen," says Aun.

Her pictures also show the Moken fleeing towards higher ground long before the first wave struck. Aun pointed out how high the water first came. And that was just the first wave. The worst was yet to come, and the Moken knew because of signs from the sea.

It wasn't only the sea that was acting strangely. It was the animals, too. On the mainland, elephants started stampeding toward higher ground. Off Thailand’s coast, divers noticed dozens of dolphins swimming for deeper water. And on these islands, the cicadas, which are usually so loud, suddenly went silent.

Saleh Kalathalay, a skilled spear-fisherman who was on a different part of the island, also noticed the silence. He ran around warning everyone.

Kalathalay brought the skeptics to the water's edge, where they, too, saw the signs. Eventually, everyone, the Moken and the tourists, climbed to higher ground and were saved. But there's nothing left in the village.

Why does Kalathalay think the tsunami happened? "The wave is created by the spirit of the sea," says Kalathalay. "The Big Wave had not eaten anyone for a long time, and it wanted to taste them again."

Continued



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Add a Comment See all 11 Comments
by messages17 June 11, 2007 7:35 PM EDT
What an amazing culture! To not have the word "want" in your language or the behavior or actions associated with it.
What wouild it take for any of us to spend a day and not be touched by the energy of someone/business telling us to Want It.
Saks 5th Avenue ran an ad campaign this year the" centeal theme was stated on every advertisement WANT IT - The fashion world has blessed it and we have it." We are so deluged by the message want me, buy me - that we don't even know it anymore.
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by messages17 June 11, 2007 7:29 PM EDT
What an amazing culture! To not have the word "want" in your language or the behavior or actions associated with it.
What wouild it take for any of us to spend a day and not be touched by the energy of someone/business telling us to Want It.
Saks 5th Avenue ran an ad campaign this year the" centeal theme was stated on every advertisement WANT IT - The fashion world has blessed it and we have it." We are so deluged by the message want me, buy me - that we don't even know it anymore.
Reply to this comment
by messages17 June 11, 2007 7:25 PM EDT
What an amazing culture! To not have the word "want" in your language or the behavior or actions associated with it.
What wouild it take for any of us to spend a day and not be touched by the energy of someone/business telling us to Want It.
Saks 5th Avenue ran an ad campaign this year the" centeal theme was stated on every advertisement WANT IT - The fashion world has blessed it and we have it." We are so deluged by the message want me, buy me - that we don't even know it anymore.
Reply to this comment
by minminmin-2009 June 11, 2007 4:11 PM EDT
I'm less optimistic than some of you. I fear these people will be slowly steamrolled into somebody else's culture. Look how many cultures have fallen, the American Indians, the Hawaiians, the aborigines...the list is horribly long...I hope they hang in there.
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by klifton2-2009 June 11, 2007 1:14 PM EDT
In our quest to be "advanced" and "civilized" we have become irrelevant. Anyone who does not conform to our definition of civilized, we thumb our noses at them and handle them with disdain. Good for the Moken! Indeed, they have a lot to teach us, if only we are less arrogant and stop adopting the "I know best" attitude.
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by rational_1 June 11, 2007 12:29 PM EDT
I'm sitting here in front of my computer in an air conditioned office reading this article, before a full day of writing and meetings. The Moken, on the other hand, hang out with their kids and friends, live in a great place and don't worry about deadlines and other pressures. They seem really at peace (lucky them!!). Makes you wonder if our techno-civilization was really such a good idea!
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by dukeudevil June 11, 2007 10:11 AM EDT
One gets the feeling that the Moken were here long before us (i.e., so-called civilized people) and will be here long after we "go," military bases and/or tsunamis withstanding.

Nice follow-up, CBSNews.com. Thanks for the update.
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by brianbwb-2009 June 11, 2007 6:39 AM EDT
to friquegnonm

The Moken have always been sea people , until only relatively recently untouched by other cultures. Their language does predate Buddhism, and the music is also unique, though this is changing. their culture assimilated Buddhist ideas, and later western ideas as and when they fit their aquatic lifestyle, but there is still a strong and proud tradition that clings to the root of their existance. The Moken came from the sea, they will go back to it.
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by plainjean June 11, 2007 12:19 AM EDT
Great journalism CBS! Somewhere up above Margaret Mead is smiling down upon you. And those Mekon. Bob Simons has discovered the way to end global warming: live like the Mekon!
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by msbb18 June 10, 2007 11:23 PM EDT
*** great piece. check out John Lurie's video on fishing in the Andamon sea. Different, but interesting.
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by friquegnonm June 10, 2007 11:08 PM EDT
Could someone please tell me if the language/society of the Moken predates or is subsequent to exposure to Buddhist ideas.
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