May 21, 2012 1:56 PM

From fear to fortune: Tel Aviv's attitude

Bob Simon: What are you drinking?

Asaf Zamir: This is vodka soda because I'm on a diet.

Bob Simon: And there aren't any people who would be watching you on television and saying what the hell is our deputy mayor doing drinking outside a bar at two in the morning?

Asaf Zamir: This is what I'm supposed to be doing. I've done this-- I've been doing this before I got elected. This is my way of life and most of the young people in Tel Aviv-- we go out every evening. And I think the people that vote for me will find it fine.

Tel Avivians love to think of themselves as avant-garde. The arts scene is vibrant. New openings every week. Fashion is cutting edge, along with music and dance and theatre. And compared to the rest of Israel, Tel Aviv is not only more cosmopolitan, but more tolerant. People seem to get along. Religious and secular, soldiers and civilians, straights and gays. In a poll published this year, the city was voted the best gay destination in the world. Those old closet makers are going out of business and that's just fine with actress Noa Tishby.

Noa Tishby: It's such a non-issue in Israel. That's the thing, being straight, or being gay is a complete non-issue. I mean gays in the military, what's the problem?

Bob Simon: Here it's not "Don't ask, Don't tell." It's "Don't ask, Who cares?"

Noa Tishby: Who cares? Exactly. Don't ask. Ask, tell me. I don't care. Grab a gun. Go fight. I don't care.

All Israelis, men and women, are drafted into the army when they're 18. Gal Uchovsky did his three years service in the late 70s. Today, he is a gay activist and a columnist for one of Tel Aviv's hippest magazines.

Bob Simon: In many parts of the world, parents, definitely including Jewish parents, are not happy when their kid turns out to be gay. Is it the same here?

Gal Uchovsky: No. Here it's a little different because, you know, Israel is a war zone. It's been a war zone for many years. It's very hard to raise a child here. They can die in the army. They can die in a suicide bombing. So the whole feeling of an Israeli parents is that it's-- it's a big war to keep your kid alive 'til 21. So if at 22 you come-- or any age, he comes and says, "Okay, I'm gay," you know, it's not that bad.

And that chronic war continues. The very week we were there, in the bubble of safety that is Tel Aviv, less than an hour away, Palestinians and Israelis were going through their rituals on the occupied West Bank. Rituals which have been going on for decades and are as routine as a dinner and a dance downtown.

Gideon Levy says that for Tel Avivians the West Bank could be on another planet.

Gideon Levy: They have no idea what's going on there. This is their dark backyard to which they will never go, to which they have no interest, about which they know so little.

Bob Simon: And Tel Avivians don't really care.

Gideon Levy: Not only they don't care. They don't want to care. They really want to close their eyes.

And Levy says they've succeeded. He is one of the very few Israeli civilians who has any contact with Palestinians. He covers the West Bank for an Israeli newspaper. And every day, when he gets back to Tel Aviv from the occupied territories...that's when he's reminded that he lives in a bubble.

Gideon Levy: Because this is what a bubble is about: the illusion of the moment, the life for the present, and for the very, very short-run future. It can work for a while, until it will blow in our faces. And it will blow in our faces.

For the most part, Tel Avivians have become fatalistic. Many feel there's just not much they can do about anything. The Arab Spring, Palestinians, a nuclear Iran. There's a lot of uncertainty now, of course. But that's all there's ever been here. Uncertainty.

Bob Simon: Do you ever worry that this will still be a home for your great grandchildren?

Yossi Vardi: Look, I will not tell you that everybody's sitting here like an idiot, don't worry about the future. We have this damn conflict that I hope we will finish one day. And I hope we will do peace. But in the meantime, look what we created.

Bob Simon: You like it here.

Yossi Vardi: I don't like it here. I am addicted to this place. Not only like, I love it.



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