January 8, 2012 8:25 PM

Truffles: The Most Expensive Food in the World

Tournayre: I looked for them all over Europe. I found a world I didn't know about. It's a world that's rotten to the core.

Stahl: Did you find your dogs?

Tournayre: Never.

But it's not criminals or climate change that worry the trufflers the most. It's China! For years, Chinese farmers used truffles as feed for their pigs. That was until a businessman supposedly said, "The hell with the pigs, let's feed the French!" Even if the taste of a Chinese truffle leaves something to be desired.

Stahl: Let's talk about the Chinese truffles.

Bruno: Catastrophe.

Stahl: Catastrophic? Why?

Bruno: The Chinese truffle is worthless. No-- no-- no taste, and no smell.

Stahl: No perfume, you couldn't smell it. Nothing.

Stahl: No taste? If I went to China and took it out of the ground, it still wouldn't taste as good?

Urbani: It's the truffle itself. It's like eating a piece of wood.

She says that's because of the way truffles in China are farmed. Unlike in France, where dogs smell when a truffle is ripe, the Chinese rake at the earth with no dogs - as a CBS News producer in China discovered - and harvest the truffles the minute they find them. Which explains why - while the two truffles look the same - the price is drastically different.

Urbani: Prices of winter truffles is about $1,000 a pound. A pound of Chinese, maybe $20, $30. There are many people, bad people, who mix them. So maybe they put 30 percent of Chinese, 70 percent of...

Stahl: And they think you won't see it?

On the day we were at the Urbani factory, sorters found a number of Chinese truffles mixed in with that day's purchases. They were separated out into specially marked red baskets. More and more, Chinese truffles are slipped in with the good French or Italian strains. Experts say it's like cutting flour into cocaine.

Stahl: But look, your own farmers or middle men, are putting the Chinese in with your truffles.

Urbani: Yes.

Stahl: You're telling us you have to be on guard, not from the Chinese, but from your own people.

Urbani: Yeah, I know.

Stahl: And then you're selling them.

Urbani: I know.

Food importers and middle men are bringing 28 tons of Chinese truffles into France a year. And many are being passed off as the real thing in some French restaurants. Michel Tournayre says he's brought home some slices from his dinners out and studied them under a microscope in his lab at home to check their origin.

Tournayre has tried to blow the whistle on the restaurants that sell Chinese truffles at French prices, but the police have more important matters on their plate and rarely do anything about it.

Stahl: Twenty, 28 tons of Chinese truffles come into France every year? Where do they go?



© 2012 CBS Interactive Inc. All Rights Reserved.
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